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I use a cheap digital car tyre gauge off eBay This will read down to 0.1 Bar (just), so is ok-ish at registering the 0.5 Bar or so required. Many analogue ones and really cheap digi ones won't do at these low pressures.

Thanks, DoItAll, that makes sense :wink:

Scary stuff, Tony!

Going back to what Tony said, what's the pressure when the system's off and cold, and how does it change when the fault occurs and the PRV opens? Is the expansion vessel (EV) pressurised correctly... or full of water like mine was?! :( Presume you've got the Manufacturer's Instructions...

Disconnect the mains power before you do. Don't mess with anything that's not related to the fault, and make sure everything goes back EXACTLY the way you found it. If you have leftover screws or are in any doubt, you MUST call a RGI out to help. It's also strongly advised that you do NOT...

No, the overflow pipe mentioned comes with the valve. It's an INTERNAL overflow, i.e. any excess water drains into the toilet bowl, rather than down a pipe to the outside world. I guess you have a traditional EXTERNAL overflow at present, which then becomes redundant. :wink: Well done...

When I changed the 2 sensors on my old Worcester, I was amazed to find that each replacement came with a huge tube of RS (RadioSpares) thermal compound, of which about 1% was actually needed for the job. So even the meanest of repairers should have some knocking around.

I bet you could improvise! I'm sure I've seen a syphon working with the hole(s) taped over.

My money would be on the kitchen tap :wink:

Is your back boiler one of those Baxis with a gas fire attached to it? If so, this is surely a pretty economical way of heating a single room.

There are loads of places in any boiler which could leak. Some would be extremely expensive and hard to fix, others dirt cheap and take about 10 minutes. Apart from the pressure relief valve (PRV) which you've checked, another "classic" potential leak point in a sealed system is the automatic...

If nothing else, they must surely restrict the flow horribly :evil:

But don't use the pressure relief valve to release the excess pressure, as it may not re-seal properly afterwards. Try using a draincock (underneath a downstairs radiator), with a length of hose attached, and when the system's cool, obviously :wink:

True, but nobody was fooled (except Tony :lol: )

My brother has one of these. As you imply, it would take a team of rugby players to push it over. But it still has its weedy little chain at the top - which I'm sure I could snap with one hand if I yanked hard enough!

I'm intrigued to know what an £800 tap looks like... tell us more! Mine cost £100 complete with a 1.5 bowl s/s sink, and has been fantastic since installed 5 years ago. Homebase too :wink:

If no luck, you could mount the old bit in a vice (using bits of wood to stop the jaws damaging the threads), then use a file to square-off the bit that's been rounded-off. Use a good quality adjustable spanner as a gauge to check that the sides are parallel, then use the same to open and close...

Yes, that's right, it's meant to stop the cooker from being pulled over and is mandatory. Have a look in the manufacturer's instructions. I do agree with you that in many cases, it's often an entirely un-necessary precaution, and done merely to comply with regs rather than because the cooker...

How did you try to turn it on? Switch on the boiler? Room thermostat? Programmer? Have you got a wireless programmer/thermostat? If so, these use batteries which may have gone flat.

You're right, there might have been a screw there once. Sometimes, you can use a very large screwdriver inserted between the plastic lever and the backnut to force the lever off, using a twisting motion. Be careful not to crack the cistern if you have to use a lot of force. I'm in...