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Any way to get the height down from what you've suggested? Using 4x2s and screwing and glueing to the door frame gives a total depth of 6", but I guess that's insufficient.

Thanks. There's still a course or two of bricks to go on, front and rear, to give a level wall plate. "Gauge" ;-)

I am building the outbuilding pictured, in my garden. It's 4.8 x 3.2. It will have a 24 degree cut roof with the ridge running lengthways, with clay tiles. Can anyone suggest what size and material lintel I could put over the 2.6 door opening, to support the roof at that point? Around 4...

Bl**dy hell, don't

Their

Nobody will go to that effort to steal a skylight

That would be correct assuming the void is ventilated. I still think this is overkill for a shed. You may be heating it, but unless you're living in it where will the moisture come from? Condensation is caused by moisture held in warm air condensing out when the air is cooled, as cold air can...

The air gap should be on the cold side of the insulation, but only makes sense if the gap is ventilated. Otherwise put the insulation hard up against the roof. But this is all to do with preventing condensation in the roof straucture, rather than the shed. Personally I think you're unlikely to...

I would never replace good timber frames with uPVC.

I've lost track of whose house is which, but it looks to me that what was a gentle curve has been turned into an angle by the installation of the slabs. The triangle looks to belong to the house with the garage - it can't be part of the drive of the house with the door and window - you can't...

Fixing the drainage is the thing you should discuss with the neighbour. As to the rest, I agree with those who have suggested you're taking the p155. You can't design a development around redesigning your neighbour's garage roof.

looks like its already been made smaller to accommodate the electric fire.

They'll be fine, they're concrete blocks

"Their" "Neighbour"

Correct. The OP would bear the cost of any and all surveyors involved

I'm building a 3m x 5m outbuilding. The back and one side (that won't be seen) will be in block. The front and one side (that will be seen) will be in brick. The bricks are reclaimed, and three courses are taller than a block. How do I bond the corners, where blocks meet bricks?

Just checked online and it does. You probably think I'm a wimp, but when you've had your hand sewn back together once it tends to make you a little cautious ;-)

Thank you, that's very helpful. Do you know if the Erbauer also has soft start?

Speaking purely personally I wouldn't bother with adding struts. Once you've screwed the OSB to the joists you have a fairly solid structure anyway. I prefer to use the full sheets because it's less faffing about. If you lay them with the long edges along the joists (cut if necessary so the...