Search results

I recently moved into a house built in 1994. All the skirtings and architraves are taurus profile. They're a bit of a mess and I tend to think they are not the originals - tons of filler down the back, joints a mess etc I'm considering changing them all and wondering if I should replace...

Some boilers are more efficient when the water returning to them is not stone cold. The bypass may be there to bleed a little hot water back to the boiler to increase the return temperature. I would just crack the valve open a little.

I don't want to be a spoil sport but if you're thinking of changing the radiator yourself and you don't know if straight or angled valves are needed, stop! Changing the rad and valves is not a difficult job but get some more advice before you start. You'll need to drain down the system or...

These things aren't necesarily related. Your new water supply is unlikely to have any effect on the flow or pressure to your own plumbing. They will just have rearranged the pipes and probably installed a meter. Combi boilers generally have a low flow rate. Because they have to...

A surrey flange is used to provide two dip tubes into the tank and thus two seperate feeds that do not effect each other. Assuming you have 28mm pipe going from the cold tank to the hot, you can get full flow out of the two connections to the surrey flange. However, if your not using a pump...

Sorry, should have said this is an open vented system, Y plan, boiler is a Ideal FF50, fitted in 2000. Is the 60 just a higher head that the 50? There are 8 rads, mostly large ones all fitted in the 70s and it's a 4 bed semi.

Sorry gents, still confused :? This is on the hot water circuit, not the radiator circuit. There's no other valves on the HW circuit so I don't think it can be a safety device. I can imagine it might be to bleed some hot water back to the boiler return to increase the return water...

I need to replace a central heating pump but I'm unsure which one to get. The existing one is British Gas Multihead II. It has "manufactured by Potterton Myson Ltd" written on it and the following table: 3 1800 110 0.48 2 1200 74 0.32 1 700 44 0.19 There is a heading...

I have an indirect, vented HW tank as part of vented CH system which is Y plan. Between the flow and return to the HW tank heating coil there is a pipe Teed directly between them with a gate valve in the middle of it. The pipe looks like it is 10mm. At first I thought this was for...

Hmm...that's not a bad idea.

I've seen a few posts saying to make sure there is a tight fitting lid on the F&E tanks for vented CH systems. What's the purpose of this? I assumed the lid was just a dust cover. Thanks.

I've done 3 layer torch-on on my garage and a mates. It takes a bit of getting used to to melt the tar without burning through the felt but is quite easy after a few strips. Within the scope of a keen DIYer I would say. I don't understand why people think it's particularly dangerous. If...

I was in this same situation and, as Richard says, I dot & dabed moisture resistant plasterboard (the green stuff). I used it on the wet areas as well. The problem with aquapanel is that there is no adhesive that's recomended by the manufacturer to dot and dab it. It's supposed to be screwed...

Exactly. This is sometimes called a balanced system, where the pressure from hot and cold taps will be the same as they are fed from the same tank, thus have the same head.

Yes, this was undoubtedly an air lock. Not at all uncommon. The two pipes are for hot and cold. The hot essentially presurises your hot tank so that there is pressure avaible at the taps on the same floor as the tank. It goes to the bottom of the hot tank and the outlet is on top. Hot...

Thanks, Woody - that's very interesting. I think that in my case the covenants are part of a scheme of development. For example, all the front gardens are open plan i.e. no walls or fences and these are banned by covenants. It would certainly look really odd if one home owner decided to...

I've got the switch but haven't installed it yet. Just one slight sting in the tail is that the specs quote that the switch needs to be mounted vertically, no problem there, but what it doesn't mention (or I didn't see) is that the flow needs to be upwards i.e. switch must be vertical and "this...

You do not need to be Gorgi registetred to work on your own gas appliance, only to charge someone else to work on theirs. I'm not suggesting everybody starts ripping into their boilers, only do it if you know what you are doing. Same applies to your electrics.

The pipes to the sink may need to be moved but more likely you can just stop end them, fill over, then do new runs to the new sink and bath. If your tiling the floor, and the toilet is sitting on the floor at the moment, you may get 15mm just from the tiles and adhesive.

Baths are usually fed from 22mm pipes and have larger bore taps. Basins are usually fed from 15mm to smaller bore taps. You will usually find that just a 22mm hot and a 22mm cold enters the bathroom and the basin feeds are then tapped off of those, as well as a 15mm cold supply for the toilet...