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Thanks Robbie uk! I think I'll follow your advice. I just wonder whether a wickes generic solvent based undercoat, thinned down to a 25% white spirit mix would do? Sorry if I am asking the obvious, but I really have zero experience.

While removing wallpapers in a house built circa 1970, underneath it I have found a layer of what seems to be some kind of glossy paint, that flakes off at some places but in most is stuck firmly on the plaster. I have sanded where it flaked off and applied two coats of matt paint. Now before...

Will do, thanks for the suggestion. Although it could take some time until I find ones that do have it - from what I've seen most have renovated their houses and put new floors. In the meantime I'll keep looking for the "fingers" elsewhere.

I don't think that's on styroloft's site. Also, I don't think their boards are PIR, and afaik PIR boards are commonly of R value higher than 6. Sorry, I misread your comment - I thought you were implying I would end up with the same insulation as the uncompressed amount. From what I read it...

Ooops, that of course, was a typo - I meant 115mm x 22mm! I would also (even, mostly) be interested in the reclaimed tiles - I am sure there must be some people trying to get rid of them!

I was wondering if I can add the R values of an air gap and celotex above like in this: [code:1] ~40cm between joists 10cm | celotex | 5cm | air gap | plasterboard ----------------- [/code:1] So if I have an unvented air gap of 5cm at the...

Hmm, not so sure about that, see this: http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Insulation#Forms_of_Insulation http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/295798-compressing-insulation-2.html With 15cm joists and fibreglass I'll end up with the R number of 4.3 (at most), which is by around 2 short to...

Anyone knows where I can get a hold of a just a handful of parquet flooring tiles of 1150mm x 220mm in individual tile size? I have a couple of gaps next to a wall that I want to fill - probably caused by the structural movement of the house (yes, had some subsidence problems in the past)...

I have the following "problem": I have 3 layers of glass wool insulation on the loft: 1x15cm (the original - probably 40 years old) 2x10 cm (put in 2007.) The joists are 15cm tall, so to avoid layering several levels of chipboard/insulation/chipboard, or adding another level of joists...

So I guess the answer for now is: it depends. I think I need to do the following: 1. Get a warm air heating engineer to do the inspection and make a quote for getting the system up-to-date, that would bring out the best possible performance (for my budget, that is). 2. Get a wet-system...

As I said I have never lived in a home with warm air heating, but what I noticed is that most of these sooner or later get replaced by wet central heating systems. I guess that the often cited downsides - that is: high maintenance cost/effort, noise, large unit (and ours is in an awkward place...

Yes, the prospect of unexpected problems popping up is what scares me the most. I thought that if I used plastic pipes then I can chase them wherever I want provided I have enough space. But on the other hand I would like to remove the hot air ducts (the ones that are not under the floor)...

I need some advices related to the future replacement of a hot air heating system. Soon I will be moving into my new house that currently has a hot air heating system. I am going to give it a trial first during this winter, as I never had one of those, however I am aware that hot air is not...