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We get the keys to our new build on Friday. The garden has skim of topsoil and a some riven buff paving. It has a slight slope that I'd like to level. Perhaps a single brick below the slabs and bit of raising up towards the bottom. The shed on the picture actually sticks out by a paving slab...

Pics relating to Topaz lane

I've been looking at laminate floors and I'm keen on heavily textured styles with saw cuts (ideally straight) ...there's one I like in Carpet Right but...and its a big but, the edges of the v cuts look really un-natural and are one solid, badly matched colour (not overly obvious in their on-line...

Ok...just following up on this. Used self amalgamating tape and it's been bone dry ever since.

It seems pretty firmly stuck!

I can't seem to get my dropbox images to display but.... https://www.dropbox.com/s/cfwmj69ye6rtt9t/UnderSink.JPG?dl=0 ...under our sink there's a plastic pipe that comes out from the plaster board, through a hole in the back of the unit carcass and then to the drain. It's the one with bits...

Ahhh....got it....thanks :) I'll do it that way. Thanks Olly

Will do, funnily enough the chap in the video suggests you can use less. It does appear to show a piece of the under lead being bent up over the the top lead. I can't think of a different way you'd be able to (or would want to) do it. Thanks Olly

...yep thanks. 8:20 shows an example. The tip at 8:05 about folding a corner over the different sections is good. I won't be using straps. I'll try to get my bungs in a bit further than some of his too so they get a reasonable cover of pointing.

Right, so from that lead site: min 25mm into the wall 450mm between bungs 1500mm pieces of flashing 100mm overlap 75mm upstand (actually that will be dictated by the cut in the mortar but it won't be much less than this) Blimey...looks like they're suggesting a lap of about 350mm. Stuff...

The weather boarded lean-to is what we've just built. If you look very carefully you can see the cut I've made into the mortar above the top tile. The verge pointing of the new build can't be any smaller if you put the battens on top of the under cloaking. It would be even deeper if we'd...

Hi hope you can help please. Is there a simple guide out there for lead flashing, I've got to do a straight line of about 4.5m onto Forticrete Centurion tiles laid at 12 or 13 degrees. I've read I should use 1.5m strips but the questions outstanding are....... How much overlap? Lead bungs...

I don't know how important it is to the discussion but we will be using breathable membrane that we have left over from doing the roof. Some of the stuff I've seen on the net appears to distinguish between a vapour barrier and a breathable membrane.

Hi, We've built a workshop from Xella, Ytong blocks (7n/m I think). It will be clad with shiplap or featheredge weather boarding. We're using 25mm deep battens to nail the weather board to and have decided against any further insulation. Where should the moisture barrier go please...

Hi there, sorry for the delay in replying. Xella, Ytong the blocks we're using (7n/m I think). I can try and find out the exact model but it doesn't seem to be written on the plastic pallet wrapper. The battons the shiplap will be nailed to are 25mm thick. Is it worth using insulation and...

I guess that way the lead is the bit that gets the water rather then the batons. Would certainly be easier to run the batons through the thickneser (if they ever dry out) than cut out notches.

I read somewhere on the net that 6mm gap was sufficient to let any water that may get past the tiles escape down the pitch. When you think about the volume of water, which should be none if I understand things correctly, then even 6mm sounds ample. Do you recommend 25mm for the counter...