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tried it and not stopping fully - don't want to risk leaving it this way.

i tried re-packing it with ptfe tape but still a dribble, and the valve looks tatty anyway, so i want a new one!!

Hi all I'm trying to drain down my CH system to fit a new radiator valve which was leaking around the gland nut. I have a drain valve downstairs by a radiator, and have put a hose on it, as well as a tray underneath to catch any spillage, but the drain valve doesn't seem to undo ...

can't find the motor leads... theres too many and it's very tight .... do i need a new actuator then?

the board? how weird is it though that the motor must move, as htg on on its own is fine.

i'll have to get the torch out to check properley - it's in the airing cupboard. i will try and find them!! if no voltage to them, is a dodgy wire the fault? what if they are fine? is it a dodgy valve?

tap connectors, like the 1 in the pic above, with built in isolation/service valves are much better than fitting separate!!!

there are many wires going to the valve , (after unscrewing the casing)... one is scrwed (pre-screwed) to the metal casing part, and lots to another part at the front, which has like a padded cushion thing covering them! what ones exactly do i need to test? some seem to have like clear...

ok will do. sounds like a dodgy actuator then. will probably have to buy a new one tomorrow now

how will i test for this seco?

yes the white wire has 243 (v) . ive checked that earlier. thats why i don't know what's happened - it is not normal!! unless as i thought before, the microswitch was not allowing it to stall in mid and just keeps it in the hot water only (rest)position. although saying that, how comes i...

another faulty motorised valve problem!! as above, the motor is not moving acorss. fit a new motor or actuator head. saying that, as well as using a multimeter, if when htg is ON, the manual leer has resistance, then this too will prove that the motor has failed to open the valve fully to...

the grey wire is not live (so i presume the programmer is not faulty then)! but .... with both on together, the motor must not move across as i only get hw!! the pipe to the rad circuit from the 3 port mid is not hot (it is hot, as it will be heated by conduction), but i mean not hot as...

I have a weird problem... Hot water is ok on its own Heating is ok on its own BUT... when both are on at the same time.... I only get Hot Wwater and no Heating! My system uses a 3 port valve mid position. COULD it possiby be a faulty microswitch preventing the valve from stopping...

what is the best size allen key to unscrew the 4 nuts on a circulating pump? i just need to check that the impellor has not come off...

ok thanks for your advice. any good types? do screwfix sell them?... i'll have to get one soon!

Hi all, does anyone know of a good make digital thermometer which can be used to balance rads, and to also test the temp of rads to find cold spots from sludge build up, etc? also are the pipe clamp-on (like crocodile clips)! thermometers good, or can the clamps simply be bought separately...

a work colleague of mine has this problem, and his local plumber has been out and can't figure out the problem! this is all the info he has given me: so i am thinking it could be a handful of things, without knowing more about the external controls! i have worked out it is not a combi...

Need a quick bit of adviceplease.. is a 1/2" or a 3/4" hosepipe best for draining a ch system? 3/4" is obciously larger diameer but what's best guys/bearing in mind for tap connection(s)?

the whole cold feed is in 22mm. maybe it's just that i have overbend slightly y a few angles the bend, or that the connections are not fully tight (not finished at the mo)! as said though, the pressure from the cold water tank in the loft should overcome any very slught horizontal/upward...