Search results

To be honest, I wasn't sure if I could do a liberal dot and dab with cement backer board. I assumed my substrate needed to be reasonably flat so the dabs aren't excessive. Since I need to repoint all the bricks and the BAL rapid plus only comes in 20kg bags, figured it be more cost effective to...

I know cement board is the faster and easier way to do it in most cases but rendering the wall and tiling over lets me maximise the space of an already small firebox with only a little more effort. Plus, considering how uneven the firebox is and the missing mortar between the bricks, it'll need...

I'm wanting to clean up the look of my fireplace before a woodburner gets installed. It's currently some old brick that I've scrubbed as much soot off as I can. A lot of the mortar is missing and the wall very uneven, with dips and missing chunks of brick here and there. So I plan to cover it up...

chemical cleaner is a last resort for me. Don't want to risk pinholes or fouling the boiler at the moment. Magnacleans I've had poor experiences with, generally frequent leaking from the main lid. Usually happens after a service and the system gets hot but also had a brand new one leak...

Gravity is a double edged sword in this case. I flushed it in my bathroom as I was not getting a 1600mm 50kg rad down 4 flights of stairs without damaging either the stairs, the rad, myself, or most likely all of the above. I severely underestimated how heavy it would be, not even sure I'd want...

I'll get a mate round to help with lifting it and give it another flush this weekend, make sure to tip it upside down as well.

I didn't use any chemical, I was only flushing one rad, not the whole system. I didn't want to use chemical cleaner as I was worried that it would block the microbore or damage the boiler. I'll either try to get a SDS drill and give the radiator a proper beating or flush it somewhere with...

what if I connect the water to the top and drain from the bottom, any difference? Mainly because I can get a hose onto the bottom TRV side but the lockshield side doesn't have enough movement in the pipes to connect a fitting and hose. Maybe I'll look for a smaller fitting and see if I can...

Long story short, I took a rad off the wall and flushed out a ton of sludge. Rehung and it's improved considerably but not completely. The back panel is now hot all along the bottom but the front panel is still cold along most of the bottom. Doesn't start getting hot until a third of the way up...

Thanks, looks like I'll be getting a pro in to sand/plane the floor at some point then. Is it recommended to underlay the ply and the laminate or is just underlaying the laminate enough? (if it doesn't hurt and I can get my hands on decent underlay for a reasonable price, I'll probably do both...

thanks for the advice. I'd be amazed if my floorboards are warped less then 5mm but I'll definitely check once the central heating is getting replaced. Maybe some new screws will get it to 5mm for sanding but I'm not holding my breath. If I was going to use 12mm-18mm ply and not sand the floor...

You wouldn't use anything less than 18mm? 18mm sheet is thick enough to be a subfloor by itself is it not? I was only planning to put a new layer on top of the existing subfloor, I didn't want to remove the floorboards if it can be avoided as it sounds like a lot of work that might not be...

I've bought a flush-cut saw to do this in my mothers house before as a multi-tool would have taken at least a week and countless blades. Don't really want to do that again as it still took ages and butting it doesn't look that bad. Not worth the effort imo. why would 6mm ply be too thin to...

Sorry for the late reply, work exploded this week. Been running around daft. I've got my rad locations and pipe runs pretty much figured out, the locations aren't too far from the original locations, all on the same wall. Biggest change will be the bathroom (back of the flat, pretty much in the...

My central heating is on microbore, which is blocked in places and most the rads are full of sludge, so the system needs gutted. I know in the living room, the microbore pipework was just jammed between a gap in the floorboards, wouldn't surprise me if the rest of the flat was in a similar...

Ceiling is too low for a duct. I think it's because the kitchen extract fan has gotten a bit **** over the years, cooking humidity is building up. If it were a rising damp issue, it'd expect the wet to be more consistent across the wall but it's the worst closest to the door, where the kitchen...

The room is internal so no windows. All trickle vents are open in the lower ground level and the kitchen window is open most of the day. Still looking to get the kitchen extractor upgraded but struggling to find a workman willing to do it or has the time to do so I'll get a fan stuck in there...

The room is now empty, flooring included. Heating is set to max for a couple hours a day and recently put a dehumidifier in the room to run in parallel with the heating. Needs the heating on or the coils ice up, somethings broken and not had time to get it looked it. The latter seems to be...

That sounds expensive to fix! I'm hoping it's a condensation issue as this room isn't used much and is just off the kitchen. Looking at upgrading the kitchen extractor fan as it's quite old and I never believed it to be any good or some kind of PIV system. Probably a long shot though

Always internal, I think the subterranean level was a much later addition to the 1888 main house, perhaps 1980s