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i thought as of the start of the year 16th and 17th were both current? and that come next month 16 is old and 17th is current, or is it an overnight change?

Another thought. there was a fault with the first CU which caused the fuse to blow the massive current may have damaged the meter or something causing a new fault (that is only a complete guess and tainted by the fact theres a current post asking about the condition of his leaking service head)

is that in reference to this topic not been typical DIY? because i think its a good topic to leave on the normal boards, walking into B&Q and seeing the CUs stacked up leads many people to believe its a simple swap, this post indicates all the reading and testing that must be done and that even...

indeed the through the roof part wasnt accurate (unless it dismounts, lol) but the point i was trying to make was more wind would equal more power for the zener to disipate and there is a limit to how much it can dissipate, on a car or bike this is calculated, it may be exceeded on a wind...

if it is better not on E7 (i would expect it is but you should be able to do the calculations) then try and get them to sort it now an recalculate not on E7 so you get the benifits on the outstanding amount, i wouldnt expect them to comply as they dont need to if noone had informed them you...

a big zener on a heatsink may be sufficient to clamp the maximum voltage the alternator will give when attached to an engine, but there you know the maximum rpm. on a windmill the rpm could go through the roof, i would say it needs something else to disconnect it when things get too windy.

I may well be wrong but I was always under that impression from this: (from http://www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part_p:diy_electrical_work_and_the_law) i read it as adding sockets on a ring/radial is non notifiable, and adding fused spurs is none notifiable thus insinuating that (none fused)...

another point to note: fused spurs are not notifiable (in none special locations etc), but none fused spurs are (although additional sockets on a ring / radial arent (in none special locations etc)).

yep! nothing like staring a job and not finishing it hey!

I suggest adding An RCD to the circuit, or even better swapping out the MCB with an RCBO (where available) may be a better solution than rewiring the circuit!

^yeah but its not just electrocution, i saw some statistics for house fires recently which suggested that the majority of fires were bad electrics, . my views on part p are mixed, as a house buyer its good (or will be when its been in long enough), buying a property that is built and...

sounds like a earth to neutral fault. although 2 showers on one RCD doesnt sound right, if there is a chance you have used both showers at the same time then it may not have done the RCD any good, what are its ratings? are these electric showers where the water is heated by the shower unit or...

Short answer: no. Longer answer: not in terms of power consumption, I don’t know about the difference in bulb life and bulb costs? The answer you didn’t ask for: if your thinking about costs then your looking at the wrong lights, 300W of power is a lot to use to light a room even if it’s a...

if there is already an RCD in the CU then there is “no need to waste your cash”, other wise i urge anyone using any equipment outdoors to use an RCD, especially on any device with a spinning blade and a trailing cable –although theres a good change of blowing the fuse, theres also a reasonable...

13 amp fuses dont blow at 13 amp (or 13.1), basically 13amp is the most they can sustain, after that time comes into it but I seam to remember reading they could take 20 amp for 30 mins or something equally as unexpected which puts it into prospective. if it was me I'd use a 13amp fused plug...

the 'power surge thingys' dont add safety just stop your computer from dying, you need an 'RCD' somewhere, if there isnt one in your consumer unit (/fuse box) then yet you need to go buy one ASAP, electric shocks are a lot more fatal outside as well as been more likely to occur in the first place.

spur from a socket! junction boxes are evil, and you need to leave them accessible (not buried under the floor) as the screws loosen with time, so far better to go into an existing socket (also that way you wont end up tapping into the wrong circuit!)

10A is pretty normal some have 16A, on the continent 6A is normal (but there is less need for heaters there). new campsite installations would have RCD protection, but some older ones dont, either way you want your own as i wouldnt trust an RCD thats been sat outside for years (and the test...

cheers, Ive resent the email.

but it also works the other way! -when the backup battery is flat it beeps, after a while the owners get fed up and turn off the mcb feeding it! -if its on the light circuit they have to leave the mcb on (if they want light) and replace the battery to stop the annoying beeping!