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it would be worth pointing out that BAS isnt an electrician. (neither am I).

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When I was a student, shortly before Christmas our water went off, everyone else who we spoke to nearby still had theirs on. I noticed the old external stop cock was no longer in plumbed from the now capped pipe coming from the ground (presumably a problem with it at somepoint) but the incoming...

dispite the fact that this topic is crap i will answer it. -no battery backup: the battery would be knacked by the time it was used, ok a lithium battery could be used but still in the past 10 years Ive experienced 1 powercut (i know some people get them often but they are the minority)...

^I have heard that more mercury is released into the atmosphere from the extra coal used to in feeding the extra energy in tungsten bulbs, although i dont think i believe it. transport costs go more by size so its not really an issue. and if they lots of energy to make them then the cost...

using a flux pen helps loads, so does a clean tip (the chemical tip cleaners are handy), lead free solder is a pain to work with use lead where you can (and use thin solder not thick stuff), the 12w antex iron from maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=4048 is great for smt...

^agree with what BAS has said as, as for a bathroom the lights should be as described, and are better replaced with something more suitiable etc for a whole host of other reasons. However I'm not convinsed that solving that will solve the problem. have you got adequate forced ventilation (a...

Extra low voltage ones all the way for me, my current ones arent LED but still extra low voltage. LED ones have dropped loads in price. you still need to pay more for the better ones, if you dont like the 'ice white' (bluey white) look of most LED ones, go for 'warm white LED' ones there seemed...

more info needed: what kind of lamps are they e.g. 12V? 240V? halogen? (you know not to tuch the glass if they are right?) any +other info you can give.

I use to have the same thermostat and replaced it with a similar one to the ones you linked on screwfix, i dont have time to talk you through it now but this link explains what should be wired where: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=75541 (make sure you read the text as two of the...

apart from on 'general electric' ones, just to get my personal gripe in as i have been most disappointed by their bulbs, (and my sister has the same problem on hers so not an isolated incidence), they are unusabley dim when you turn them on and take more than a few seconds to get up to a decent...

depending on how many cables you are dealing with time vs material costs etc, you could consider running double sheathed singles, although not required for the conduit parts it will solve the problem for the runs outside of the conduit.

i would be tempted to leave it on the RCD side of the board, theres not much risk of shock from a boiler (as its class 1) but there the pump ages there is a good chance of it tripping an RCD and thus taking your other circuits with it. that's not to say the above post is wrong, it would be good...

a few more points: -Im pretty sure for a bathroom you must use a shaver socket with an isolation transformer built in. -all new wiring within bathrooms must be RCD protected -all circuits CPCs and metel parts (pipes) that come in from outside the zone must be bonded unless all bathroom...

^if you dont code it (fair enough under your reasoning) would you still make a note of it on the report? granted its not your place to do a H&S audit whist you are there, or put on your report other H&S issues you come across, but for the electrics the accepted way of trying to ensure safety is...

if the 'main MCB' isnt an MCB but an RCD (if it is it will have a test button) then yes its fine, what is happening is when you short earth and neutral a small amount of the neutral current (from the other live circuits) takes its path through your cable and to earth thus causing it to trip...

^bonding and earthing are different, they both use G/Y wires and generally end up at the same place, but earthing is about a path to earth to cause current flow and trip the MCB, bonding is so anything metal which may introduce a voltage from else ware will be the same voltage as other like...

or depending what circuit it is on and where it is you may consider replacing it with a single socket.

your consumer unit/fuse box may well need upgrading, if it does it will be upgraded to the 17th edition as that is the current standard. however the new standard doesnt mean everyone has to automatically upgrade. can you post a picture (and or description with makes and model etc) so we can see...

as far as i recall before doing any electrical work you should check the earthing and main bonding are up to scratch, so yes. it is most likely he did (he should hav), but do check. the regulations changed this year so (generally) new cables <50mm depth and all new cables in the bathroom are...