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your electrician 'should' test for leaks before changing the board. 30ma is what is needed for shock protection, you dont want anything less sensitive. to make it less sensitive to tripping: circuits are spread amongst more RCD's. the 'best' (ok its arguable) way is an RCBO on each circuit...

its worse for the electricians that are still in the trade as they may be fully trained and qualified but if they work for a company then they still cant DIY notifiable work at home without paying their local building control etc. The part P system isnt perfect but as i see it: -having the...

i dont really know anything about generators but i suspect it goeas something like this: Diesel -noisey but cheapest to run 2 stroke petrol -cheapest to buy but noisey 4 stroke petrol -much quieter I think you can also get noise reducing covers, dont know how good these are or if they...

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taken from this topic: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1040583

one common way to comply with the need for an RCD in the bathroom circuit it to put the circuit on an RCBO (MCB and RCD combined) if one is available for your consumer unit (fusebox). complying with notifying under part p of the building regs is another matter.

I’ll leave the answers to your questions to someone who knows better, however a point to note would be that service head is metal and thus should be earthed, as it belongs to the DNO they need to earth it, so either they need to supply an earth or change that cutout to a plastic one.

what colour is your garage? if it isnt already paint it white and it will be a lot brighter (and pleasant to be in) and you can loose a tube or two.

on some units you can get them to stay on by quickly turning them on and off (or is it off and on). Maybe someone has done that? I think you just do the same again to put them back to normal, or maybe just kill the power to it for a while so it resets itself.

measuring individual devices is good, but measuring at the meter is also good, as when you use the plug in ones its easy to see how 'little' most things use, when you use the wireless ones to measure at the meter you see just how much all the little things add up. for example my Dad has a plug...

^ha yeah we made similar jokes at the time, then when i wrote that i made the same slip and realised that it didnt sound very family forum friendly, I was going to edit it but forgot.

^agreed, theres too much to learn in one hit, its time for an electrician to have a look, or a friend who is handy and has a multimeter. the circuit should not be turned on again until it has been verified that its not going to trip when it is switched on again (otherwise it may do damage when...

one way to see where it is all going is as per the linked topic, these devices are on sale at maplins at the moment maplin wireless energy meter . people will argue you dont need one, Ive never felt the need as i am energy conscious and have a good idea what is using what (or watt!?!). at the...

monkeys, i think you are missing BAS's point that if you just fit a PIR then your light will come on when you enter the room even when its already light (from the sun). so maybe you should thank BAS for pointing out this floor in your plan and ask for suggestions on solving that problem (cough...

to test if the transformer has been fried you could run it with just 2 20w bulbs, if it is fine put all 5w bulbs in.

i second that, from your use of the words "earth leakage" it may be an ELCB rather than an RCD which if i understand they dont work very well (ie unsafe) and if you have one it is likely you have a TT earthing arrangement (through an earth rod) so if it is an ELCB it may be time to replace it...

so what did they suggest? as far as i understand if it is in an enclosure the heatshrink isnt needed (so best left off), if outside an enclusure it is to ensure the cable is double sheathed so is required.

if you put it on the 2v max setting (presuming it isnt auto ranging) and put 3v in it and it says OL (most likely) then there you have it! Over range would be better terminology but theres only so much you can display with 7 segment characters.

well worth upgrading from a TT if you can. also the bonding to your gas and water main can be done yourself to save some money you could get it all set up ready for your electrician ready to connect up (you can actually connect it yourself but depending on whats there it may be better to have...

thanks for the clarification (I dont have a copy). so it comes down to: are you putting a new socket/connection point in? or plugging it in to an existing one?