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Hmm, a very unconventional setup, can we have a picture anyway!

if its just an oven (no hob) then most come with a plug to put straight in, so if you already have a socket there and you dont need an electric hob (gas is generally far better) then your all set (assuming the circuit there is as it 'should be'. if your designing/ installing the circuit then...

Deffo get the PIR done now, its money well spent. if you get it done now your solicitor may get the price of the work needing doing, as highlighted in the PIR (eg new consumer unit.PEBs..etc) knocked off the price of the house. or you could do what many people do and move in start...

for electrical regs it comes under the 17th edition of the wiring regs the most relevant parts include: -the light needs to be suitable for the 'bathroom zone' (there should be info in the wiki). -there is also safe zones (again in the wiki) for the cable -circuits in the bathroom...

oops, I read it as "Thorn and Fitzgerald" rather than "Thorn" and "Fitzgerald" hence why i couldnt find it! useful places to know about though, thanks.

Cheaper, maybe (see above comments you can get them cheaper!) better, no chance. see if you can source some better priced RCBOs and fit them.

When the person comes to fit the voltage recorder use the opportunity to try get some investigating done there and then. if you can get the volts to drop whilst he is there then it should be pretty conclusive, and it sounds like turning on the toaster will do this. The main question is where...

it wasnt the rule makers that designed the twin RCD board!

also ensure there is a sufficient gap under the door to allow airflow.

agreed most likely. no problem with that. there is no obligation for an annual pir check is there? true, do any light flicker, otherwise you dont have much to go on there other than a guess about what? candle bulbs blow more often, having multiple ones naturally further increases the...

you probably dont have a proper ratchet crimping tool, but as you are using a blanking plate (which is the right thing to do otherwise your cable will be outside of the safe zone) you can have a screwed terminal behind the blanking plate, use chock block, (but dont buy it from the pound shop or...

good question, I dont know how long, but i would say sockets etc need doing. when i moved into my house a couple of years back i went round and tighten everything (it was rewired in 2001), they all needed doing and the one that was most worryingly loose was the washing machine (and previous...

Hmm, thats still more logical than black and white but I guess if something is logical enough it is black and white. It does make sense to me that if you change something you have to do it to the current standards and a CU change effects everything as stated, so any reasonably possible work that...

there seems to be two main questions on this thread, firstly the age old question of multiple circuits under the same RCD and weather this sufficient for separation of circuits, but then there is the other question which i read basically as: where does it say that on a consumer unit change...

use rings where may you need the load (eg socket circuits) on things like heater controls you can use a lower rated radial with an appropriately rated MCB. so basically look at the anticipated max load, pick a higher rated cable (including installation methods etc), pick a higher rated MCB...

nope, not if the cables are <50mm etc etc (which they 99.9% sure will be). I agree a fault on another circuit would take out all the lights (unless you can split the light circuit). how about a split load single RCD board with the lights on the none RCD side but with their own RCBO? or just...

it isnt the length of the tails as stated earlier, but it could be the connections on the tails, most likely the connection where it enters or leaves the main switch on the consumer unit. if these are tight (and dont go poking them with an incorrectly sized none fully insulated screwdriver only...

indeed, new water will corrode your system and cause sludge and blockages, inhibitor is added to the water to prevent this but if you have a leak and top it up you dilute this every time, putting fresh water in the system which will cause more and more corrosion.

As a member of the IET and an electronics engineer i understand electricity more than most people, but still researching the field of domestic electrics has highlighted to me just how much knowledge and experience is needed to do the job 'right', most DIY jobs are not done right, if part P puts...