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I think, for my peace of mind, that's the only option. The wall's already tiled and drilled for the cabinets so I'll have to pull a row of tiles off. Not a big deal I suppose. Maybe I can get a bit of dado rail or architrave that would look all right when painted rather than a square batten...

I'm just about to fit a row of wall cabinets from the B&Q basic range...

Thanks guys that's a relief. Surface mounted earth wires would have looked pretty bad.

Hello I may have just done something foolish. I grip-filled stainless steel splashbacks around the hob and sink areas of my new kitchen but I have just realised they're not earth-bonded. They are, I suppose, a potential live conductor but no one else's splashbacks I have looked at (private...

There is a brick wall behind the drylining but it's an outside wall and I know from experience that it's a swine to drill those bricks (fitted extractor grille recently). They're hard as nails and difficult to reach with a DIY drill from inside the flat. I'm getting an electrician in to run...

Thanks guys I've taken your advice letiss and bought some slimline sockets. I also bought some steel socket boxes so I can bring them out flush with the tiled surface as you suggested JohnD (current ones are plastic with a lip and lugs that catch on the back of the plasterboard so they fit...

Just about to tile my new kitchen with 200 x 100mm tiles (you know the ones with the chamfered profile). It's clearly going to take some care going around window recesses and such like, which I think I'll take care of by mitre-ing the joins where the tile run changes direction. Problem is...

Hello all I couldn't find any posts about this issue so I wonder if there are any Corgi-savvy people out there who can advise me? I'm putting in a new kitchen (myself, and it's all ready bought) and want to change my existing freestanding electric cooker for a built-under electric oven...

Unfortunately on this model (actually a WDM120) the hinge has two hooks on it so it has to be lifted up slightly to remove. The good news was that the plate which the screws fasten into was either captive or seized in place so hard that changing it over was a doddle:!:

Breezer wrote: Well I'm not famously heavy-handed or anything but, if somethings going to break, it's going to do it when you've got no spares :!: I think I'd better wait until Wednesday when the shops are open. Thanks for the advice.

Ah, thought there was something securing the seal. Are these re-usable items though :?: Bearing in mind we're in the middle of a 4-day holiday and Yellow Pages ads all sound a bit 'trade only' I really don't want to break anything that I can't easily replace. (Plus I've never delved into the...

Hmm, door seal is pretty firmly stuck and I think it might get damaged if I even partially remove it. I can feel the hinge screws through the seal but can't tell if nuts are captive or not. What I'm trying to avoid is small job turning into major production. M/C is shoe-horned into far end of...

Hello I have a 4-year old Hoover washer/dryer that has been pretty good up till now (well, OK the fabric conditioner hasn't rinsed out of the drawer properly/at all for a while now but you can't have everything). The door hinge has just broken (one half anyway) and I'm pretty sure I've...

Trouble is I'll have to remember to swap it for an isolating item when I move. Would love new aerial btw or, better still, a satellite dish. Local planning regs however prohibit adding extra aerials and, worse still, only allow one satellite dish per block. So I've got the choice of sticking...

I have a plug-in job (Vivanco TVSB1) which claims to boost by up to 20dB although this doesn't seem very plausible given the difference it makes turning the dial from one extreme to the other (3dB = double signal I was taught). Does this item qualify as "private booster" :?:

Hello I've just tried to change my TV aerial wall socket because the current one is a very sloppy fit. The lead keeps falling out and I do wonder if it's affecting the signal strength (Ch4 & 5 are pretty weak around here). However, I was about to take the old one off when I noticed that it's...

Is that apply knotting solution over the varnish or rub it down over the knots :?:

All done now and very pleased with myself and job. Thanks for the advice :!: I learnt a few things doing this. Hope it helps someone[list] 3m lengths of plaster coving are definitely trade items or, at least, for people with an assistant. I hefted them around in B&Q and thought "no problem"...

Hello My living room is now looking lovely with its new coving (thank you Tex-Mex, Wonderdust and Masona!) but I now want to gloss-white the skirtings/architraves and door frames. I varnished these 6 years ago (in Ronseal Antique Pine) and like them well, but am thinking of sub-letting so now...

Masona, that's well useful :!: I did wonder what the numbers on the mitre box were all about :idea: Thanks everyone; so it's Stanley-knife the adhesion surfaces and knock in some nails along the bottom edge as I go (although that won't be popular upstairs :evil: ) I'lldo it tomorrow.