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Yes, use the install CD, hopefully it will be a "Live CD", this will enable you to run Ubuntu from the CD rather than your computer. When you start up choose the option "run without making any changes to the computer". Once you have that running use GParted (in System-->Administration) to shrink...

Thanks guys for the help and sorry not to respond earlier - got a 12 week old who is keeping us busy! Thanks for the link, unfortunately from the pattern of the bricks I think there isn't a cavity. The walls in that room are very cold indeed too. I have had a good look around the forums...

I am not sure if there is a cavity, the room was built during or after the war due to bomb damage. How can I tell if there is a cavity?

Hello, In the back bedroom we have a built in airing which used to have the boiler and water tank in. This was removed last year and a new combi put in the loft. The walls of the cupboard were coated with shiny foil like rubber like material presumably to reflect heat back from the boiler...

Would painting some varnish on the joint be a good idea? Having read more posts - http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=135551 in particular mentions using varnish on the cut ends prior to joining. Obviously its too take to do that now, but I could use some over the joint. Thinking some...

I sent the fitter an email earlier today, see what happens.

Thanks for your reply. While the worktop was bought from B&Q it wasn't fitted by them. It was fitted my someone I found on MyHammer, who's profile now seems to be blocked... Replacing the worktops would be quite a lot a work with retitling and fitting hob and sink - well some work anyway...

Hi all, Hope someone can offer me some advice. We had a B&Q laminate worktop fitted in Feb. Unfortunately the fitter didn't have any colourfill at the time and used glue in the joints. After it was fitted we got some colourfill and put this over the joints. Unfortunately around two...

Sorry to hijack someone's post, but I have a similar situation. My loft has two sections, the front which originally had 100mm insulation in the joists over which I put an additional 170mm at a right angle to bring it up to 270mm. The back section just has the 100mm between the joists. I plan...

Thanks again stem, >As it's on the ring you can run a spur from the supply side of the existing FCU direct as a spur to a new socket Great. >or run the spur to a new FCU feeding the new socket for your lights and >use the new FCU to switch them on and off. Do you mean effectively put a...

Hi Stem, Thanks for your reply >Is the FCU already used? Yes, the cooker hood >What I mean is do you plan to use the FCU to supply the new socket? Or is it already supplying something else? I want to add/spur off a socket. >Is the FCU wired as part of a 'radial circuit' a 'ring...

Hi all, We are doing up the kitchen and we would like to have under cabinet lights. To me it seems there are two ways of doing this, ones with go from the lighting circuit and those that plug into sockets. The later seem to an easier option in some respects. Am I able to spur a socket...