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I have first hand experience of being the customer and diy builder subbing the brick laying out - so I have been up and down the roof trying to keep my rockwool dry recently. As it is pretty repellent you'll find it won't really be as wet as it looks, but a 18" roll of DPC i had lying about...

Or use a 100mm x 65mm x (Opening + 300mm) concrete lintel - they're cheap and readily available... Tom

I'm no expert, but couldn't you get is pretty bob on and than pour just a self leveling compound on it, saving time and money? Tom

It is looking increasing likely that I will be stripping the 120 odd Sandtoft 4-year-old clay Bridgwaters off and selling them to redeem some costs... We're in Somerset. Is anyone interested?? Cheers Tom

Crack on it will be fine! Tom

Thanks for your reply. The Sandtoft modular tile is also clay, and that is a quarter of the price... I'll have a good look around on lunch and see if I'm likely to be able to cover costs with the existing Bridgwater tiles. Tom

Just had a price for the double roman Bridgwater tile from the local merchants, and, although it might not be great price (just ringing around) at at £4.90/tile it is nearly 4x the price of the equivalent modula from the same yard!! A - why are they so expensive guys - surely the taper can't...

True. Tom

The fireplace on the first floor is closed off, so the sealed fireplace in question is only open at the top (outside, not loft space) and is on an external wall.... But it has been like that for years, as I said, and we suffer not issues. I appreciate it is more than an old wifes tale, but...

Screwfix list large enough tarps for £12. Even if it only lasted six months, that's £48 to see them through 2 years when they've hopefully saved enough. A bit of batten and a can of expanding foam or mastic and that roof would be a damn sight better sealed than it is now IMHO. Tom

One of our chimneys/flues is sealed at the bottom and open at the top - it has been like this for a couple of years, and we have no issues. (Maybe the insulated plasterboard on the walls hides possible damp patches?) So, and I don't mean to sound clever (far from it), what are the real...

You're welcome Cliff - good luck with it. Tom

It is all about the Thermal Mass. If you put the insulation below the slab you will have a greater thermal mass than if you install it above. More thermal mass equals slower heat up and slower cool down. If you visited your house once a week for 6 hours you wouldn't dream of putting it...

I agree! Tom

I agree! Tom

EDIT: Scupper - obvious really! http://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/epdm-scupper-outlets-small-60mm-x-80mm.html?gclid=CNmP1dayyLkCFRMPtAodlhwAgw

Thanks. I've just watched a few videos on you tube, and priced it, and it's favourite... Which ever solution, I also need to get my head around (and there might be something on the market already) how I can take the water through the parapet wall (4" concrete block) - i'm looking for a spout...

You obviously don't want to live with the damp - it isn't nice to look at and more importantly, it is very bad for your health. Although a tarp isn't going to look pretty, I doubt you spent long looking at your roof to worry about it. Tom

Hi chaps, I'm building an extension on a notice, with no pro drawings or builder, but each inspection from LBCO has been signed off with no snags. I'm hoping to get the roof carcass signed off on Monday, then it is on with the box gutter while I wait for the brickies (had to employ them!)...

Measure, as best you can - so if the low side is 15 courses, measure and compare 15 courses. Is his work even both sides? Tom