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Hi, following on from previous thread about state of hot water plumbing causing problems... Replumbed that all now, fitted the shower, and now havinv to move radiator in the bathroom and connect up a downstairs toilet rad... However as seems usual in this house, nothing is that simple... Found...

Just thought I'd update this, The pipe work running to the bath and basin has been cut out in the photo but was where it is capped off. Had to cut the pipes because somebody run them inside the bath legs making bath removal impossible without cutting the pipes. The boiler cold water...

what I meant by it, apologies lol, is Water comes out of boiler, through a 15mm pipe. it goes to a T under the bath which is 22mm pipe and original pipework. But instead of the hot water going right at the T towards the basin taps... it is flowing left and forcing all the cold hot water...

Right, just spent some time doing some investigation into this. Think I have now (hopefully) sussed it out, scrap above... wasn't correct. Out of boiler, is 15mm, this goes under the upstairs hallway floor, into the bathroom, then it goes into a 22mm pipe behind the bath panel... so...

Hi, Had a brainwave earlier, will check it later. I think, whoever plumbed it in.... rather than connecting hot water out on boiler to the hot water pipe by the bathroom and feeding entire hot water pipework this way and cap off the pipe where hot water cylinder was. I have a feeling...

Hi, just wondered if there are any known causes for hot water to be slow to come through from a combi boiler? It's a Heatline C something or another lol. But when you turn on the hot water taps on the bathroom basin which is only say between 1-2 m away in physical difference, pipe length...

Problem here is, are you getting condensation from humidity inside house or because of cold bridging from a dodgy installation? If frame has been fitted tight to aperture, then it can make the frame cold and then warmer moist air inside condenses. As above, trickle vents in energy...

I know what you are saying about spending money and time on training and qualifications. Should be noted though that there is also lots of qualified people around in all trades that still act like Cowboys not because they don't know how or aren't capable but purely because they lack pride in...

Not against improved standards and control, I agree there are bodgers... Some of the biggest ones seem to be companies with teams of installers rather than sole traders. Recently had a look at some glazing for somebody who know. They only had it fitted about 18 months ago and said they have...

I don't think that's fair, I do a reasonable job, but not enough to justify fensa registration. I use cavity closers, fire socks in the cavities under the closers, where cavity exists and possible, I don't fit frames tight into opening so there's no chances of cold bridging or brick walls...

Why avoiding foam? I always use it not as a bodge but because of several reasons. Foam all the way around window or door means no drafts. It gives a thermal break separating brickwork from frame so cold brickwork doesn't make frame cold which in turn will suck heat out the room...

Just got some windows from a local company Essex Trade Windows. They manufacture the frames themselves using fully sculptured profile32. Use safeware sash locks. And use glass units manufacturerd by solaglass with planitherm total+ Argon filled with warm edge spacer. All of them have...

Think personally the beading is the way to go anyway but most don't use it. It also doubles up to protect the sealant behind from the weather.

https://brcs.niceic.com/ maybe this is what they meant? I don't know..

Hi, thanks I don't think then I will need to submit a building notice. Because it complies with this, Conservatories and porches 3.15 Regulation 21 of the Building Regulations exempts some conservatory and porch extensions from the energy efficiency requirements. The exemption applies...

Hi, thanks for the reply. Existing doors will remain in place. Currently there is a conservatory, which is half the width of the house. Originally plan was to just make the base bigger, to full width, a wall either side... Plastic roof and PVC doors and windows on front. But because...

Hi, Thanks for the reply :) my mistake, it was the way I worded it which probably wasn't good. I understood it there is, Planning Permission, which as you say is the right to build... which requires full plan submission and building authorisation. Then there is, Building notice...

Hi, Thanks in advance for any help or advice. I am looking to build an extension to the rear of the property, as it is not a detached house I gather the maximum is 3m outwards from the house? But I was just wondering if anybody could answer my other questions. Looking to put a plastic...

I once caught a water pipe with a circular saw. pipe was fitted by plumber tight against the bottom of a floorboard. I run the circular saw accross the floorboards at a depth of just the thickness of the board and it caught the pipe.

the very end of the run, head end will always be negative pressure.. as water infront of it will generate a suction effect. So should be no problem with using an Air admittence valve. However, the opposite end, the sewer end will always be positive pressure, so as above air admittence...