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Don't think it's the capacitor - the motor does start and turn (without anything connected) but it's slow and noisy - think bearings gone? Doesn't have a fan on the end, no.

Hello, Motor has died on my JLTDC01 dryer (very slow & noisy running even without belt attached, won't turn drum at all). I've been trying to choose a replacement machine but I think I'm better off fixing this one as to replace with a similar spec will be at least £400. Pic attached of the...

Don't know about best but this is certainly cheap! http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Central-Heating-System-Cleanser-1L/p/221226

>I'm presuming it's a full drain to purge No, just a few seconds blast to clear out the crud - it uses the water pressure to clean itself out. You can't add anything through the Spiro.

Probably the Fernox works faster (more efficient separation) but the Spiro is a lovely solid thing and may well last longer. I got a Spiro 2 cheap off EBay but if paying full price now would probably go for TF1.

>I checked the header tank and it was quite full... I had problems with my system filling with air and cutting the boiler out because as part of some 'improvements' (mainly cleaning) I had increased the depth of water in the header tank because it looked a bit low. After a lot of...

Thanks everyone. It did free off in the end - undid the nut on the bottom then much wiggling and application of Plusgas top and bottom. That stuff really is better than WD40 for freeing things up.

Ok, thanks for that. Unfortunately the installers decided to route a rad return pipe directly underneath the valve so there's no way to meaningfully tap the bottom of the stem. Might have to drain down elsewhere and replace this valve. Any reason not to use a standard gate valve?

Thanks. At least I know what I'm swearing at now. Should it turn both ways? Access is really tight so I need to be sure before I lean on it. What is special about a 'sludge cock'? Can I replace with a standard gate valve?

Hello, This 'orrible old 22mm isolation valve is the CH drain-off (pipe on RHS to outside) and needs opening. Do I just turn the top, flat part or do I need to undo/loosen the nut on the bottom first? It's pretty stuck but I haven't used massive brute force yet, just sprayed on some WD40 for all...

Thanks for that. There is a bleed point just above the cylinder coil inlet and I checked that it is bled, if that's the one you mean? Is it likely that replacing the zone valve (downstairs) would stop the bang up in the cylinder?

Hello, I'm getting a single, loud bang and physical shudder in/from the hot water cylinder (indirect) when the heat cycle stops. The CH and HW are working ok but get a terrific clonk and shake and it's definitely from the cylinder. What could that be? Thanks a lot!

Well, in an ideal world, yes. I suppose I could reduce the water level in the cistern a bit which would cut the flow quicker. But still interested in finding the fastest inlet valve out there. Anyone got any timings? Toilet race! Thanks.

Thanks for your replies. Dudley Hydroflo? I timed the two toilets current fill rate; 55 secs and 65 secs. Am I likely to get much faster than that do you think? (2bar 15mm inlet.)

Hello, Looking for a fast filling valve for 6lt close-coupled toilet cisterns. Have fitted a whole house pump and so want toilets to fill fast to minimise pump noise (can't change toilets to mains). Existing, old Torbeck type valves work fine but would 'Fluidmaster Pro' (bottom inlet) be faster...

40mm Hepvo if necessary?

Thanks for your answers. Yes, having put the bath in place it would be an uphill struggle. The wall on the right is internal to an extension room (doesn't go as far back as the stack pipe) so I can't send the bath waste that way. I think I could shoot a 40mm through the external wall (running...

Hi, Is it completely mad to use two 'WC Connector inc pipe boss' like this? If so, any suggestions please? Thanks for your help.