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I bought the HepVO NRV from City Plumbing and it turns out that Osma own Wavin so the HepVO valve and Hep2O pipe are all Osma owned. I got the valve, plus the straight threaded connector that should probably be a part of the valve kit as everyone complains that they need to buy it anyway. HepVO...

Thanks so much for all this advice. See, there are plumbers and there are plumbers - and I have paid one to design and put all this in, and without a waste NRV, as well as countless heating system leaks on his new pipework with ruined laminate floors as a result. The plan in this downstairs...

Thanks for the reply, this seems to be growing, but best sorted now rather than a mess if the washing m/c waste overflows or backs up! But thanks for the alert. I have paid a plumber to take it this far, so I don't know what his thinking was regarding anit-syphon? I have an open floor and a...

Thanks Hugh. It would be major surgery to lift the glued down ply floor to get a dedicated 40mm from the washing m/c to the main 100mm outlet. However, I have access to the 50mm and the two 40mm's currently meet at a branch in the existing 40mm run, which then later goes into the 50mm and from...

Thanks for the advice on the shared waste. I will separate them but can they later meet up in a 50mm or do they need to go separately all the way to the 100mm stack? Currently the new network done by the plumber has 32mm's going into 40's or 50mm's, a couple of which join into the 100mm...

Not so keen on the Floplast, a few low star reviews on it, but thanks. I will try to track down the McAlpine suggested by Old&Bold. Sealing to tray - What about the neutral core silicone, is it any good on rubber ring seals?

Thanks, that is the same trap that I already have but the top cover is flat and chromed brass instead of the domed one I have. I will try a merchant for it, Screwfix don't have that exact one. The shower tray will be directly on the ply at the vertical flange/edges which are about 35mm high...

Yes it is 40mm, 32mm on an adjoining basin. The whole new 32/40/50 into 100mm waste network has been done new by a plumber for a washing machine, shower, kitchen sink, wash basin. He is too busy now to continue so I am picking it up. I'm happy with solvent weld Hep2o etc but need and appreciate...

In a new downstairs utility/shower room I have a shower tray waste to route below plywood floor into solvent weld 32mm new pipe. Acess is limited beneath by solid underfloor with 100mm joist floor and 22mm plywood floor. I have bought the MacAlpine ST90CP10-70 shower trap, see photos, because...

Thanks Robbie And the mist coat, 20-30% thinned on the contract emulsion? Or am I looking for a certain consistency, single whipped cream or similar?

Any more comments from Decorators please .......??

Thanks Robbie, I understand to not break the sealed burnished surface, but it feels very shiny, almost glazed, possibly overworked, I don't know!? > Could I wipe/wash it or just proceed with a mist coat with no prep then dress everything from there? > Contract Matt sounds fine, 50/50 thinning...

Many thanks 23vc. Plaster It is a mix of skimmed board and skimmed browning, Thistle base coat, very thick in one area, which I assume will take a while to dry out down to the base wall. But it is all a very pale pink and I hope would take a mist coat in the coming week? >> Comments from...

Thanks, yes D3 sounds right for the T&G joints. You mention only putting a few nails/screws in the first rows!? Is this when using Joist & Joint Caber adhesive? What about the other boards, do you use any fixings in those? Norbord the Caber P5 manufacturers state that with gluing the boards to...

The plaster in my new build extension is now a week old, all dried out on the surface. > Is it ready for the mist coat? I want to get this right, both the paint and method. The plaster is very shiny and I have heard that can be a problem applying paint to? > Shall I wash it, lightly sand/key...

Thanks bobsuerita Good point about gluing the whole joint top and bottom. The boards I have lifted so far have largely been glued on the top edge. Norbord, makers of Cabewrfloor P5 and Caberdeck (more waterproof and with a protective foil) say to use D3 for the T&G joints, and Joist & Joint...

Thanks John D, You describe almost exactly the situation I have with the two floors, new and old, with joists meeting at their ends, overlapped side by side sitting on the DPC of a shared, reduced original wall. But as you say they need to now become one integral underfloor supporting a single...

Thanks. If only this was isolated to one specific area. The worst is over a sleeper wall below it where old and new joists meet side by side and it actually 'cracks' when walked over it. There are noggins between them but I suspect not meaty enough, and that there is deflection on the sleeper? I...

Thanks, I agree that it needs to come up, but don't want to be the one making the decision on which solution from there, it's not my area of expertise. Q >>> Does anyone have first-hand experience of a similar dilemma? (and how to cure it) In hindsight I was somewhat talked into a suspended...

I have a new but badly creaking 18mm Caberfloor P5 T&G chipboard floor in a newly built kitchen diner extension, approx area is 30m2, in my 1930’s house. The boards are PVA glued on the T&G edges, it has noggins supporting every joint end, and is screwed down on 400mm centre joists at approx...