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Thank you for this. Out of interest, how is a UPVC trim fitted seeing as tiles are staggered and a trim is straight. Surely trims aren't cut to match the 'zigzag' line of tiles?

What's the best way to cover the void between vertically hung tiles and the battens around a dormer window opening? I have seen mortar and uPVC trims having been used on other dormers, but I'm unsure which is the correct way.

What's the best way to cut through 90mm insulated plasterboard and leaving a nice sharp edge along both the plasterboard and insulation?

Perfect, although I'll have a go at fabricating a half apron myself. Final flashing question: is it best to install a lead apron underneath the fascia boards and overlapping the top row of tiles or will a row of top eave tiles be just as adequate with the fascia overlapping these?

In my mind that would leave a square gap without flashing. I don't suppose anyone has an example of this (photo or diagram)?

Great, thanks for the response. Are there such things as 'corner soakers' to install at the corner where the cheek meets the front wall of the dormer and the main roof tiles continue down?

Standard 265x165 plain tiles.

Any chance that someone could please offer some insight on the above question?

I'm not sure why you would have a soffit. I'm going along the lines of what looks best? Why do houses have soffits in the first place and why aren't they common on dormers? Final question (!), should lead flashing be installed from under the edge of the felt to overlap the cheek tiles? The...

How wide would you make the soffit?

What's the most common and best looking (in your opinion) way to install fascias around a flat roof dormer? 1. Flush on the cheeks and front wall. 2. Flush on the cheeks but with a soffit on the front wall. 3. A soffit all around. Also, is the correct way to install the cheek fascia...

What's the second best and lower cost method?

I will be installing tiles onto battens on our new dormer. What's the correct detail for the corners (where the front facade meets the two cheeks)? Do you install 90 degree 'corner' tiles? Or tile right upto the corners and install some form of flashing underneath the tiles?

What's the best way to fix the soakers? One nail in the top corner of the soaker on the dormer cheek?

Out of interest, what makes a lead soaker better than an aluminium one?

Thank you for the prompt replies and the attached diagram. A couple of further questions spring to mind: 1. The existing roof doesn't have any underlay (you can see the tiles from the underside of the roof). Would it be worth installing an underlay on the existing roof approx 500mm from each...

I need a bit of advice about the detail required between an existing pitched roof and dormer cheeks, WBP ply has been fixed to the dormer cheeks and I'm ready to install the membrane prior to battening and tiling. This is where I need a bit of advice, 1. Should a cant rail be installed at...

As I'm unsure if it was done properly in the first instance. Should the new lead be adhered to the ply with adhesive or nailed at the sides? Both of these methods don't sound right to me...

Thank for the video. Despite it showing some extremely good workmanship, it doesn't detail much about fixing methods (to a lightly pitched bay window).