Search results

We have a bay window which is no more than 1 metre across and 0.4 metres deep. The existing (and probably original) lead roof is leaking and the joists are rotten so it's time to rip out and replace. Other than for aesthetic reasons on restoration projects, is it still worth installing a new...

Thank you for that very informative response! What situations would benefit from a solid floor? Going by your reply, it sounds like a very pointless product in this day and age, no?

We haven't purchased the floor yet. What is the benefit of engineered over solid in our particular case? Or to put it another way, what is the benefit of a solid floor over engineered? Also, with engineered, should we still ply the entire floor?

Ok, a floating floor is a no-no. So, what's the reason for the ply? Can we not secret-nail the new solid oak floor to the existing timber floor boards and fully bond the new floor to the screed area?

Can anyone offer some words of wisdom? Is any further information needed?

We would like to install a solid oak floor across the entire of our downstairs and have a couple of questions: 1. Based upon our attached floor plan, and seeing as there is an area which is a solid concrete (& screed) floor, what would you advise as the best fixing method? 2. Is this floor...

The water flow seems to be the same as before, and the boiler does not switch on and off whilst running hot water. However, the temperature does not seem to rise about 49 degrees, despite the dial being at max. As soon as the water flow is switched off, the temperature momentarily jumps to...

We have a Vokera Linea Max combi which has recently developed a fault whereby the hot water intermittently isn't always very hot. Every now and again, a bath of water or shower runs lukewarm or when turning a hot water tap on, it takes longer than usual for hot water to run. The central...

A couple of questions on this then: a) Is there any real benefit installing a DPC between the battens and the solid wall (admittedly the screws will pierce the dpc)? b) I take it that a moisture barrier should be installed between the pir and plasterboard (if we do not opt for plasterboard...

One of our home's walls is solid (the remainder are cavity and filled). We are thinking about insulating this solid wall internally and see three options on how to do this however which is the most common solution? 1. Screw battens to the wall and then fix PIR backed plasterboard to these...

Can anyone recommend a shop which will service a 10kg Makita demolition hammer (kango) somewhere in the South East (incl. London)? Also, how much should a power tool service cost? And/Or, can anyone advise how to service a Makita HM1213C? The red led is flashing which means that the carbon...

Both lower pipes are discharging, the outlet runs at the front (not shown on my diagram). Clay IC at circa 600 x 450 opening. 130mm (?) clay pipes. No, as this is a brick built IC. What do you mean by conditions? Otherwise, yes we can drop-in, however it wouldn't be too much more effort or...

Right, BCO are involved however I haven't asked them about this specifically. The new pipe will service a new toilet and shower.

We will be running a new 110mm drain pipe in a 0.8 metre deep trench to the nearest inspection chamber. The inspection chamber is just over 1.5 metres deep with existing clay pipes entering it. Can the new drain pipe enter the inspection chamber 1 metre below ground (and 0.5 metres above the...

Yes, jiffy's are being used with around 20 nails per hanger. On a slightly different note, why are nails always used on roofing joists and roofing battens as opposed to screws?

The reason I ask is that in the past I have used screws, however recently someone told me that you should only ever nail joist hangers. I can't see the reason for why you should nail and not screw (oi cheeky!), so if anyone can shed any light, that would be great :). I would also argue that...

How many fixings per hanger is recommended? One in every hole, or are 6 usually sufficient? What is wrong with using screws?

Is there any reason why (timber to timber) joist hangers should be nailed as opposed to screwed? And if they cannot be nailed, which nails (and length) are recommend?