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Usually if a pump is turning but on it's last legs the upstairs and hot water may work however the pump hasn't got enough power to overcome the resistance to downstairs. Is the system split into multiple zones?? If it's one zone and the upstairs is working I'd be tempted to opt for the pump...

Yes power cut can damage timer. I have had this before when isolating power to service Range Powermax boilers but have also had instances where customers have had a power cut overnight. It's evident when the CH and HW lights are less bright than they usually are. If your handy with...

Yes the switch pops out in an overheat condition and won't allow the boiler to fire. Ah the plastic plunger :D

Small red switch sounds like the overheat stat. Have you tried removing the DHW micro switch of the top of the diaphragm housing and making it manually see if the boiler fires?

Did you check all the housing where the diaphragm sits and the filter is clear? Usually if it's the fiber washer leaking a bit of compound (boss white) should sort it or replace the washer with a thicker fiber washer I've had them leak and faffed about for a bit and end up slinging the new...

Drain it pull clip and undo connection off to outside and out it comes. You can either replace it or save yourself some money and try cleaning it out. They can be a bit awkward You need to support the brass section and get some grips on the very thin black plastic ring below the red...

A PRV will not tend to just fail unless something has activated it.When refiling did you accidentally overpressurise it? With system pressure cold at 1-1.5bar what does the pressure rise too when the heating is running? If the pressure rises quickly up to three then discharges it...

Ta I'll bare that in mind. When I had full section out I even heated it up and got my biggest stilsons on it would not shift at all.

blowing fuses is likely down to a faulty part (one which draws current, pump fan etc) or a short circuit somewhere poss on the PCB itself

what boiler? that would help

You not checked for any other issues on the PCB other than the dry joint???

Depends on the baxi combi?? The older baxi's had the diaphragm situated at the front and were nice and easy to swap as it was all looking at you. I'd also swap the grommet where the pin comes through while your at it. The newer baxis have the flow switch mounted in the right hand hydraulic...

I'd say so. You can just replace the solenoid coil

A joy to get out especially when the top has corroded and the baffle has dropped into the heat ex. I have a tool for cleaning wastes but it serves better as a baffle remover than a waste clearer

I wouldn't. When the fitting is at pressure the pipe moves out slightly if the plaster is hard against the grab ring pipe may just pop straight out. seen it a lot on polypipe and john guest

That sheds more light. Yes this indicates the PCB cannot read the pilot solenoid resistance correctly. If you have a multimeter you can disconnect the wires and should get 1.5Kohms across the solenoid

Tom did

Can you see if the pilot is still lit? Maybe the valve has not shut fully and there is a wee amount of gas maintaining the pilot

************** It forms part of the flue************:roll: Edited by mod

There won't be power on pilot solenoid Fan runs first Air pressure switch proves fan pilot solenoid opens Pilot ignition Pilot proves Main gas lights