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I hadn't realised that there was an alternative to stainless. Anything else would seem like a false economy. What about the expansion side of things? Is the choice between an air gap or an external expansion vessel?

The common pipework inside the house is already 22mm and no 2 taps share any 15mm, so it should be OK on that score. The MDPE is definitely only 20mm because the bore is around 15mm. It's dropping the pressure by around 0.2bar per metre at the 34l/min! What about cylinder manufacturers...

Over the course of the week I changed my mind from fitting a heat only boiler and making minimal changes to getting an unvented cylinder fitted with a system boiler adjacent to it. Even with all the plumbing changes this is not significantly more work. I've measured the water pressure and...

You'll have to balance the system so the flow in the new pipes will be restricted down to match that in the old 15mm pipes. Otherwise it wouldn't be balanced. The 22mm isn't necessary except where you need it to feed several radiators. 15mm can carry around 4kW and 22mm can carry around 11kW.

Up until now I have been resisting making substantial changes to the CH and HW, but now I'm starting to think that this isn't sensible. I could switch to a mains pressure hot water tank located adjacent to the boiler downstairs. This could be done without appreciably impacting the space...

Thinking about it further I guess it shows that it's bad installations that cause the 428's problems rather than something inherent in the boiler design.

The Glow-worm looks like the same boiler as the Vaillant. The dimensions in the manuals are identical for flue position, connections, etc, see below. Since as mentioned this morning it shares the same heat exchanger then won't it have the same 'problems' as the Vaillant?

When I looked at their website I didn't see any heat only boilers. Do they only do system boilers?

OK, well I've done some heat loss calcs and I get the following: Using U values, room dimensions, etc I get a heat loss of 15kW (inc. 2kW for HW) Using the IDHEE whole house calculator I get a boiler size of 20.4kW Using the Energy Savings Trust whole house calculator I get a boiler size of...

The house is detached, four bedroomed, of 1955 construction and with limited roof insulation because it has a dormer roof. I am going to do some more detailed calculations on heat loss. The existing boiler is a Glow-worm Hideaway 70B, but I don't know what output it has been set to, either...

The system is open vented with a Myson Aerjec installed about 50cm upstream of the pump. The system works very well at the moment (no air, no noise, etc) and so my initial thoughts were to change just the boiler. I've used various methods to size the boiler and they come out at around 19 to...

I am tending towards a Remeha Aventa 24v and it has the added benefit of being Opentherm compliant. It's also closer to the heating requirement I've calculated for my house at around 19 to 20kW. I assume that the Aventa 24v is more forgiving?

I had planned to get an Ecotec 428 installed to replace an ageing conventional boiler. However having read many discussions yesterday on code S.53 I am having second thoughts. It looks as if the problem is the 428 heat exchanger that creates a high pressure drop and so the minimum flow is...

You want to search on google for slip couplings either solder or compression. With a simple straight slip coupling you could cut out a section of pipe, cut it short, add the T and then replace it.

Does the VRC430f have optimum start? There is plenty of comment in the manual about compensation, but no mention of optimum start.

I am about to have a new Valliant boiler fitted to replace a reliable, but 20 year old boiler. Currently I have a CM927 for CH control and a 7 day Honeywell timer for HW (ST9100C). The system works well and the optimum start is great. I am considering whether to switch to the VRC430f as the...