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The thermal expansion in plastic pipe is around 10 times that of copper.

There are a few more points included in the uk.d-i-y faqs that are relevant and haven't been mentioned.

It's 1 barg (gauge) if it's referenced to atmospheric pressure and 1bara (absolute) if it's referenced to a complete vacuum. 1 barg = 2 bara if the ambient pressure is 1bar. All pressures will always be quoted as barg.

+++1 for Clearview and don't oversize it for the room you're heating.

A sealed system eliminates the feed and header tank and so the risk of pumping over or air being drawn down an incorrectly plumbed vent. The arrangement of feed pipe, vent pipe and pump causes a lot of problems and so eliminating the F&V is a good thing. and As water is drawn into a pump...

No, water is incompressible so there is no change in 'relative density' and it would be Specific Heat Capacity, not Latent Heat.

This is melodramatic nonsense. A good quality liner with insulation is fine. Burning wet wood or running an oversized stove at very low rates could cause problems, but that's not a problem associated with the liner. The one good piece of advice hidden in this is to run a small stove hard...

I would bring the liner through the register plate and fit the adapor just below it. If you backfill with vermiculite then you can't remove the register plate without it all falling out. So I prefer to have that joint visible below the register plate. If you are filling with vermiculite then...

With a very heavy 150kg plumber and a 250l tank the total load is going to be around 450kg. Too much I guess for typical roof joists, but OK with the appropriate strengthening. It all depends on what's underneath where the tank is.

Yes, there is a problem with your English; 'utter shyte' is of no help to anyone. The problem with a horizontal cylinder is due to the lack of depth. There is much less depth to hold the hot layer of water, hence the oversizing. Also more risk of mixing the layers when drawing off the hot...

What you have said makes no sense. The only thing that can be compromised by having the cylinder on it's side is the effectiveness of the heat transfer when heating. I guess a vertical cylinder would be marginally more efficient. Otherwise providing the cylinder is stainless steel and has a 25...

It's because of the government subsidy they are getting. Maybe they make money even with a poor installation.

So they're setup so that the heating curve supplies water at the temp required for the place of greatest demand and then TRVs do the rest. The TRV is the internal modifier. I'm not knocking WC. I'm using on and Remeha boiler with an iSense control. This is another alternative to vaillant or...

I don't think pure WC is a good idea on any house, but the best insulated. You can have 5 degc outside either with or without a strong wind. An average house is going to lose a lot more heat with a strong wind, but the outside sensor is still measuring 5degc in both cases. So you need an element...

I wouldn't get hung up on controlling the pump speed. The biggest influence on efficiency will be having a boiler that modulates down to a low enough level and a good control. I would get a System boiler and then your pump and bypass will all be integrated into one package. The least you will...

The diaphragm in the valve has hardened up and is resonating as the valve closes. Get a new diaphragm and the problem will go away. Probably cost less than £1.

I assume that you have undone the plastic nut so you will then have a 30mm approx formed rubber washer that seats down on the nozzle when then arm lifts. Search for "ballvalve diaphragm" on google and there are few pictures of them. I got mine from a local hardware store.

Exactly the same thing happened to me last week with the same sort of valve and the cure was a new 29p 'rubber washer'. The old one had stiffened up and was causing the vibration.

You could mount the shower column part way along the wall adjacent to the bath, rather than the end wall. Then it could overhang by more than 150mm.

You could try one of these: http://www.rbsupplies.co.uk/products/Grohe-Rainshower-System-Diverter-with-450mm-Arm.html You can mount it anywhere and it is fed via a hose to any existing wall outlet. The head rotates on the column so there is flexibility on position. Fairly expensive, but good...