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OK, that's what the black squares mean next to some of the codes :roll: :roll: Looking at it another way it could still suggest that the Ebus can control the HW independently of an external control. The status of d.8 might also provide a clue as to whether the link is in.

Easy to check this. Set d.25 to 0 and the HW will also be inhibited by the link.

I agree having looked at the Vaillant manual it does look as if the S.30 code, "No heating demand from external controls (clamp 3-4 open)", is indicating the link is missing. Based on what it says then this code could (only?) be generated if the Climapro was calling for heat, but the external...

If you look at the picture I cut from the Flexicom manual in my post this morning at 8am there is a statement saying that the boiler won't work without a link or timer, etc. I think the OP is now stuck between rolling up his sleeves and following up all these suggestions versus making...

It says how on page 6 of this manual http://glowworm.technicks.net/products/pdf/accessories/Smart_wiring_kit0020059272.pdf but I doubt that this is the answer.

My mistake I meant orange wire

I can't see where he said he was getting 240V on the 'CH on' terminal? My suggestion is a way of eliminating any input from the orange 'hold' wire and any interaction of the 'd.70' DHW priority or mid position setting

I don't see why the orange wire is used at all in this setup. You could try setting d.70 to '0' and wiring the white and grey wires to 'CH on'. Disconnect the orange wire. This will set the valve up as a diverter valve. This should set the boiler to either CH or DHW, but not both at the...

This would not be a good idea. As has been already said the valve is fully controlled by the 'smart wiring centre/boiler/Ebus system'. I wouldn't cross connect inputs and outputs and there is no logic to doing this anyway.

That makes sense, R is the switched live that would normally be used to start and stop the boiler. By making this permanently live all control of the boiler is handed over to the Ebus. Except that without this link surely the HW wouldn't work either?

That still doesn't mean that they couldn't sell one box that gave the option of using either control scheme or some combination of both, eg the iSense and by the sound of it the Worcester version. Once the sensors are in place its just software.

The best thought out of all the controls is the Vaillant range because you can get the WC version with a wireless connection to both the boiler and the outside sensor. With the iSense RF you still have to hardwire the sensor back to the boiler. The only drawback to the Vaillant range is that you...

I've just remembered that there's also the RAMSES 786 OT Thermostat that I didn't to add to the table because I wasn't keen on it.

When I looked at this a few months ago I compiled the table below for controls: The only other information I can add now is that iSense RF works well with the UK Avanta, but you need to buy it from the Netherlands.

A Wall wart is a bit of american slang (I assume) that I came across for a plug in adaptor. It seems like a good description for all those chargers that we seem to have for everything - all different voltages of course. I looked through the various specs in Maplin and most are stablised...

Yes a USB 5V 'wall wart' supply is what you need. Just cut the end off and make sure you test the polarity before wiring it in. I recently installed a iSense RF with my Avanta 18S. I had a few teething problems with the boiler settings, but once resolved it works very well. I like the way it...

There is a useful website for calculating pressure drops in pipes at http://www.pressure-drop.com/. As an example if you had 20mm MDPE pipe (approx 15mm ID) from the main then at 30l/min the pressure drop along the 15m to your house would be around 0.9bar. If you used 25mm MDPE then the...