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Turn off at the stop cock and open the lowest tap (hot or cold) that is fed from the 'pressure reduced' supply. Leave the tap open. That should leave you able to measure the actual pressure in the bladder. To be really sure you could temporarily disconnect the EV from the system.

Sounds like a load of rubbish to me. Before the water is admitted into the pipework the bladder completely fills the vessel. So there could only be a bit of trapped air in the connecting pipework. If any air is trapped then it won't take long for it to be absorbed into the water under 3 bar...

The EV is not a safety device. It's there to prevent water weeping through the pressure relief valve as the hot water expands on heating. The safety devices are: the pressure relief valve on the cold water supply after the reducing valve the combined pressure and temperature relief on the...

With no flow, the pressure in your supply pipe and house will rise to the mains pressure unless the stopcock is completely closed. Once you open a tap and start a flow then a partially closed stopcock would act as a restriction. You would then create a pressure drop across the valve that would...

Is that 1.5 bar measured at or near to the stop cock whilst running 20l/min through all the taps. In which case it would just be OK, but at the required minimum. What is the pressure when drawing no water?

You're reading this as a requirement to have the check valve on the primary circuit side, but having the check valve on the mains water side is also part of the 'inlet to the circuit'. Also by having the check valve on the mains side it protects against someone fitting a dirty hose.

The Megaflow tanks don't have a separate expansion vessel and instead rely on a trapped pocket of air at the top of the tank. Probably the only other important factor is the material which can either be enamelled steel or stainless steel. The stainless needs to be duplex, but I guess they all...

Well it's up and running now with the new cylinder and it works as expected with the added bonus of also controlling the DHW as well. This didn't seem the case when I tested it before, but now as installed and having been running for a few days, it does limit the water temp according to the...

I'm not going to disagree .....

Success at last! I rigged up the iSense yesterday and again this evening and substituted a potentiometer for the DHW sensor and got some predictable results. The key was switching off the Legionella Protection on setting P25. With this 'off' the DHW will control around the set point input...

If the pump were to stop pumping because of a fault, etc then there is most likely a high level switch that operates. In your case it is probably wired to stop the boiler from operating. This would stop the pump from overflowing and leaking condensate. My guess is that this is the wiring into...

OK, but the same two questions: Does a HW thermistor normally control the HW function OK with the Avanta and/or iSense? and Does a non-RF iSense control HW to a time programme using either a cylinder stat or sensor? I would like to know if i'm wasting my time trying get what I've...

3 or 4 refers to the the codes displayed on the front of the boiler; 3 for CH and 4 for HW. On the basis that a picture tells a thousand words then hopefully the attached diagram makes sense of my earlier post. [/img]

I've only been testing out the iSense for an hour or two at a time and then switching back to my CM927. At the moment the boiler is controlled by a simple 230V coming from the wiring centre and this switches the boiler on via terminal 1 of X2, ie. CH mode. This is a simple temporary solution for...

It looks as if this is true for the Avanta boiler as well. I now have a new Avanta 18S that since it's installation I've been using with a CM927. Earlier this week I finally received a iSense RF from Holland and I've spent a few nights this week temporarily hooking it up and seeing what it...

How long is the pipe from the road to the house?

The number of pipes coming out of the boiler is irrelevant. A boiler with two pipes can work exactly the same using external valves to direct the flow as required. I think that you'll find it a challenge to find a boiler that can't heat a HW tank to 60 degC and also modulate the CH water...

The Magnabooster is definitely the best made; all solid brass and virtually indestructible and as you say can be fitted in any orientation. It would be nice to hear of some real world examples of it getting rid of crud.

Most boilers get over this by either heating HW or CH, but not both at the same time. Not really a problem if the recovery time of the cylinder is typically around 20 mins. Therefore when sizing the system the HW load shouldn't be added to the CH. Although for the best recovery times the boiler...