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I have a solid brick Victorian house which I have stripped back to brick. I'm renovating the bathroom. I'm going to be use a metal frame wall lining system which is 25mm deep. I will be insulating the 25mm gap with either celotex or sheeps wool and then fixing moister resistant 12.5mm...

Both British Gypsum and CCF are telling me as long as I don't put more than 32kg psqm on the board then the frame will be fine so looks like I'm good to go. Just two outstanding questions I have 1:) my plan is to use 25mm metal wall lining with studs at 400 centers. Then 25mm celotex...

I plan on using 12.5mm moisture resistant board which as you say is 8.6kg psqm. I plan to use a 12.5mm tile backer board for the shower area and British gypsum technical support tell me this is 10.1 kg psqm. I just called British gypsum and they are telling me they their 25mm universal wall...

Thank you, I will keep you updated. Once again I really appreciate all the help. I will as you say fix in perhaps 2 or even three places along each stud and use the longer fixings too just to be safe. I did mention that id be hanging heavy tiles top to bottom on some walls and it's 25kg...

Just an update. I have decided to go with the 25mm metal wall lining system. This does require fixings at the center of the studs but I have found a fixing that seems to be very solid with my bricks. This fixing is a type of masonry screw. All I do is drill a 5.5mm pilot hole which as long...

I am going to be lining my bathroom walls with a 25mm metal wall lining system. The system has a track at the bottom that is fixed to the floor and a track at the top that fixes to the ceiling. The metal studs then fit between the tracks at 600 centers. The problem I have is that my ceiling...

Or replace the brick at the point I need to fix altogether with a solid engineering brick for example. As my joints are lime mortar I can chisel out the joint and remove the brick quite easily. I know this is more work but just thinking out loud here

Just a thought..... If the 50 mm frame was too much do you think I could use the 25mm frame but where I need to fix the centers to the wall, could I repoint the lime mortar in cement only where I need to make the fixing and then make the fixing into the repointed mortar joint? .... Do you...

Thanks again for the time and advice your putting in for me to come to a solution I'm happy with. Your right my bathroom is fortunately quite large. I have already ordered fixtures such as bath which is standard length but free standing so will not be right up against the wall but under the...

I have spoken to CCF (national supplier of metal partitioning) and British Gypsum who offer their gypliner IWL solution. Basically what I've been told is a 50mm track is the thinnest frame they offer which is completely independent of the brick wall and does not require additional brackets...

Thanks. I will let you know how I get on Ive googled some system which appear to require brackets on the studs in the brick wall , others don't appear to need that. My main questions would be whether the middle will flex if it's not secured and my other question would be what are minimum...

Ok I will look at these systems and cost. It might be my only real option... In regards to bathroom flooring I meant to say 18mm wsb ply. I didn't mean chipboard, got chipboard on my mind as I've just used 22 mm chipboard to board my loft. Thanks again for all your help.

Interesting, thanks for the idea. Yes at the top I could affix metal frame to the wooden beam that runs through at the top or perhaps the ceiling joists. At the bottom there is no wooden beam, just solid brick but I may be able to fix to the wooden floors joists. I'll be taking up the floor...

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