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Haha

Bloody hell a 15-20 min shower is hardly a crime!! I don't smoke,take drugs,gamble & certainly don't drive a Range Rover! We both work full time pay our taxes & water bill (YES WE ARE ON A METER SO PAY FOR EVERY DROP UNLIKE SOME!). Some people take the p with hosepipes, baths, washing cars...

Yes have 32mm mdpe pipe from stop tap. Why are some people saying 300l is far too excessive now others saying we need more?

Thanks WJF that's good to hear! Seems that a 300l would definitely be enough then! Or maybe a 250. Any particular brands to go for/avoid? Any reviews on the heatrae sadia megaflo?

I'm actually a female!!! Yes we have a 15-20 min shower per day, wow hardly a big deal, yes we have a water meter which we pay our bills for. The question was which cylinder and capacity not getting into a discussion about water wastage. So if we have a 300L how long is that going to last...

Any brands/recommendations on an unvented cylinder? Been looking at Heatrae Sadia 'Eco Plus' £1400 for 300l Then jumps up to £1900 for 400l/£1950 for 500l Also seen an everflo £1380 for 400l Not sure if much difference between the standard and eco plus? Any other recommendations? Not sure...

I need to create a floating floor on top of a 22mm chipboard floor. 2x1 battens at 200-300mm centres Ply over the top Followed by final floor covering What is the MINIMUM ply thickness I could get away with so that the floor wouldn’t be too springy? Thanks in advance

What is the most cost effective way to fit underfloor heating upstairs? We need to install it over the top of the 22mm plyboard deck. One supplier has recommended; 2x1 battens at 400mm centres running in line with joists Run UFH pipe up, down and between 6mm ply over Final floor covering...

Just been doing some further research. I'm not a plumber or qualified but have you considered an unvented cylinder and a megaflo (or similar) pump to boost pressure? http://www.megaflo-unvented.co.uk/megaflo-accumulators-and-pump-sets.php That way you only need one tank in your loft

From what I read here, unvented is better than vented: http://www.mcdonald-engineers.com/Vented-vs-Unvented-Hot-Water-Cylinder

Planning a loft conversion and will of course apply to building control but just trying to put a list together of what is required for costs. Can someone please advise: 1. Do we have to use fire rated doors & staircases or can we fit a fire alarm system to the entire house instead? To be...

Has anyone had UFH fitted upstairs to joists, and if so has it worked well? Or do you regret it? Planning to install it in our self-build as there is a lot of glass upstairs and I am always cold. I understand that it works like a large storage heater on the ground floor being sandwiched...

I'd like to know the answer to this too. We are having 3 showers installed and UFH throughout. Plumber has advised combi boiler is a no no. He recommended a large tank in the loft, he never mentioned what type of tank though sorry. Haha why would you want 2 or 3 showers running at the same...

Thanks for replies, the sky is really so the kids can watch their crap in their bedrooms, but I don't want to be paying for 4 sky boxes! So, what is the best method if they all want to watch different programmes at the same time (is this even possible?!) Thanks

Thanks for clarifying. He is going to insulate right into the eaves (which will be the cupboards) now and remove the insulation from the dwarf walls to create cupboard doors. I am bearing the cost as the drawings just say 'storage cupboards' but no detail as to whether 'warm or cold'. Thanks...

I told him I wanted storage all around the edges..he's left one void for a cupboard and said I can crawl through. Anyway, looks like any modifications will be at my cost. Just trying to understand why he's gone with this 'cold' method. Is it just easier work for him or is it a genuinely better...

Sorry, are you saying condensation is more likely to happen the way he's done it or if he had taken the insulation all the way back into the eaves? It seems an awful shame to have that Space & not be able to access it or use it. I just don't understand why anyone would block it up with...

He's already done it now so I will have to pay for more insulation & labour. What do you mean about condensation? If I do have it changed to the 'warm' way?

How do I physically get into the eaves now though? He said he could put one or two cupboard doors on & crawl through to the other areas! It's cost me a lot in insulation. Which is the 'correct' way of insulating a loft room? Cold or warm??

Where is the loft insulation supposed to go? I want to use the eaves/edges of rooms for storage so was expecting cupboard doors all around not the edges. Instead, the builder has insulated where the doors would go. He said this is the correct way? The only way for me to get behind is take a...