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ok I will blame you if it all goes wrong Sunday morning when he gets round to doing it :lol:

and that won't be too rough for it? I've got a standard arbor laying around he can borrow just thought it needed to be a special one

Sticker and instructions say 35mm which we are presuming is a standard size as he wants to use the old tap (old sink is the same beige colour as is the tap). Will a standard cutter for say metal do or is it a special one that i looked that is diamond covered?

He is worried about hitting it as it wasn't cheap. Bashing it from the good side, will it damage it or will it eventually come out in 1 piece with a little making good to do? Seco where can I get one of those from? I spoke to the itelligance at B+Q who don't have a clue. Am only doing the...

Uncle brought a granite sink from B+Q with part hole drill. He doesn't want to bash it out. Will cutter in link work ok? I presume the arbor in the middle will be ok too...

a slight nick should get it off tho? Can't be doing with the mil bending my ear if she has to get a plumber in. Have done loads of my 15mm and a lockshield for her just don't get why trvs don't come like that.

what I mean is I don't want to dent the copper or cut into it when I take the old olive off

to somebody that has done it before but i've never done it and its the mil pipework! :lol: Can i put a nick in it then pull it off or is the 10mm too moveable?

Can you get a TRV that is solely a 10mm backnut so I don't have to use these olive things and try and cut off the backnut. I've got a Danfoss one from Screwfix and as it didn't state all the measurements I thought it would just be a 10mm olive like a lockshield I replaced for mother last...

are you sure its hf and not LF? My non-combi has flashed LF a couple of times on 1st start up in the morning (don't have it on at night) and after a couple of resets it kicks into life. LF is no gas or frozen/blocked condensate according to my book otherwise I don't know.

when i had an issue with a tap like that a while back the jumper? wasn't moving up and down correctly. Once dismantled and tighten up everything was fine. You can get replacements of them tho if you can't fix it

Super!! Just wanted to check, know its more expensive but saves the faff about and gets straight into where you want it! :D 8)

Around this time every year I put a dose of sentinal in the system normally via the F+E tank in the loft. Access is more then tight and with having to drain down is a pain in the bum to be honest. Is there anything wrong with using the injected x100 into a bleed valve of a rad rather then...

I think you have the same boiler as me and mine had done it in the night for some reason. It means the boiler has tried to fire 3 times but failed. You need to press the reset button for 2 seconds. btw I'm no expert - taken from my instruction book I had to dig out this morning!

Just as I would ask what the 'point' is in your posts? Quite frankly pointless. Problem sorted end of thread

Struggling to understand the attitude? and why I would need to change me title to suit. At the time of the posting and as a complete novice that is what I thought the issue was. Don't see the point in the language either?

Must be the lucky 0.1% To be fair, the programmer was knackered anyway so needed replacing. Call it luck but replacement sorted the problem if it hadn't i'd have called a gas safe guy in. Either way I still saved money on a part that needed replacement anyway

hot water was only ok for a while until it was all used from the cylinder. Replaced programmer with a nice new 9400C. Dead easy fit and everything working lovely. Saved myself a few quid on diagnostics I can't afford at the moment!

its an icos. Think I may have found the problem (hopefully!!) the programmer now has no life in it at all, although no warning that the battery was dying before hand. In my mind it explains things! Its a Honeywell ST6400C around 5 years old. Can I just replace the battery or have I got to...

i have the heating on continuous with the stat on 30deg