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If its around the edged the diaphragm inside creates the seal between both sections. Cleaning the brass and replacing the diaphragm should rectify this but I'm pretty sure it all comes in the service kit. There is no harm in replacing the lot

Rather than give up on the M30100 as an experiment gone wrong they modified it new fan and board (so the fan didn't pop the board) :roll: Then they rebadged it as the HE range following further mods (sparker external as opposed to being from the board etc etc) Then they remodified the...

The fault code is in the book. Unless your registered you cannot change this part. It must be fitted by an RGI. This appliance has positive pressure and it is vital that combustion is correctly tested.

expansion on the hot pipe where it touches something i.e joist.

Possibly hydrogen gassing up. can be eliminated when you bleed radiator hold a lighter against it if it lights is hydrogen if not then next options. Pump,vent cold feed issue either configuration or blocked/restricted cold feed. Leak on the system. likely if the pipes are in screed and are...

Flow rate is immaterial to a system boiler. If you are fitting a system boiler with stored hot water for a 3 bed house 35kw is probably overkill. If you are fitting a combi boiler the higher output the boiler the better performance the hot water. For this size of house with good insulation...

Restricted flow through the hot water circuit as a guess probably in the calorifier

If it's coming from the 3-port (silver box) and your getting a knock every couple of seconds when there is a call for central heating it sounds like the valve is faulty. I.e motor moves over to heating and it drops back out of position and continues to move over and keep dropping back out...

i presume by 3-wire you mean Common Switch Live Neutral If so then wire Neutral to Neutral in the boiler. Common on the room stat to boiler live Switch live on the boiler to to R removing the link between Live and R

Yes the seal was prone to leaking on the earlier versions of the Promax. I wouldn't say so but it's your appliance

It's not the pump at fault and if the water is clear as you say there will be more than likely an issue with pipework configuration vent, feed pump position etc.

There was an issue with the Promax where a seal caused water to drip onto the condensate trap earthing the flame detection signal. It's been ages since I last did one and my grey matter won't jog as to where it was from but they weren't too hard to do.

Are you bleeding radiators ??? That will decrease the pressure. No. This is probably just down to the run of pipe from the boiler to your hot water outlets. The pressure is for the boiler and heating system (not to be confused with mains water pressure)

Yes they are universal

Thats good enough for the E.U Either valve or motor inside then. Motors are about £12. you could just change the head not the full valve. It is demountable by the button on the side. Whip it off and check the spindle moves freely and is not jammed. Turn the power off before messing...

Though bear in mind if your boiler packs up then you have no back up and it is a Worcestor

Yes. 8l/min at what 35C rise 40C rise ???? If your main is 10C and it does 35C rise then you should get 45C temp at 8l/min at the shower. If your happy with these stats then it will do. Standing under a leaking gutter has to be better than an electric shower!!!

Alternatively get a multimeter and test for long and short circuit of the connections :D :D :D

Brown on common and the other two on the other two. No water in boiler if it fires then the wires are the wrong way round. who needs a multimeter

I was being sarcastic. I have no idea of building, boiler, system design, house size, heat loss, area, energy saving controls, insulation.