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If I used a single piece of 3x2 under all the rafters/purlins I think that would do the same job without having to cut & nail all those seperate noggins ?

I am going to build a carport infront of my garage which is at the rear of the house and as it is behind the driveway gates and not extending the front line of the house nearer to the road I assume that I will not need planning permission. I am thinking of building it similsr to this plan...

Thanks Tony. I have hammered out the brickwork and reset the flue so that it now has a slight downward slope. So hopefully any rain will now not go into the fan enclosure. As for the plumber, he's long gone, years ago, prolly fitting double glazing (badly) now or banged up someplace !

Sorted. I disconnected the Fan motor wires and applied 240v directly to the motor to test it. The motor spun OK and I think at the same time it also cleared out anything lying around in the fan housing that was affecting the APS from working correctly. Then I tried the boiler and it reset...

The fan is free to turn but does nothing when I press the Reset button. So either the fan motor is kaput or the feed to the motor is missing. I assume there is a relay or PCB or both in the feed circuit. I will check if there is voltage being applied to the motor and press Reset and go from...

I think the APS is working. It clicks when one inlet has +ve pressure and again when the other has -ve pressure. When you press the Reset switch on the boiler, is the fan supposed to turn and create a bit of air pressure which the Air Pressure Switch monitors ?

The boiler in my house is about 4 years old and over the past 12 months has been tripping out every few months with the Ignition Failure (lockout) (red) LED coming on along with the Fume Sensor (yellow) LED. In the past I have left it switched off over night and then it has sorted itself out...

With the rising cost of electricity and Gas, thoughts of the benefits of Solar Heating come to mind. I'm thinking of possibly installing it to heat hot water, not the Central Heating, on an average residential 3 bed semi. Is it worth it , how effective is it, how long (on average) would it...

Sorted. I followed the advice given on here and balanced all the rads in the correct order and manner. The boiler was cycling after an hour but I couldn't work out why some of the upstairs rads were still only lukewarm. So I followed the pipes from the boiler..... It transpired that...

Chris, I posted the question on here looking for advice. If you are saying the above is wrong, what's your suggestions I should do to make it work better (apart from do some more reading) ? thanks

Ah right, thanks for a very comprehensive reply. I will check everything this weekend, its not my house but a relatives so there's a bit of a delay while I try things out, but I'll get back to you when I've followed all your advice. thanks again, much appreciated

The boiler is a Glow worm Hideaway 100B - about 20 years old. I haven't got a clue what the input and output temperatures are. By bypass, I assume that would be the hall radiator which hasn't got a thermostatic valve on it - unless there's another pipe/valve somewhere. I think the boiler fires...

Hi, The upstairs rads have always been alot cooler than the downstairs rads, I've balanced the whole house but they are still cooler, although its a small improvement. The house is pretty big 4bed so these upstairs rads are alot further than the downstairs rads. The system is 100btu, 2 pipes...

Oops .. i cut them short ... never mind .. I've added another air brick where all the fungus was .. so that should increase the ventilation. I've also floated mortar over those header bricks on the outside in a wedge shape, pointed them as well and added waterproofing liquid to the mix to...

Ok thanks I'll do that. I cut the joists mid-way on the sleeper wall so that I can butt joint the new ones against them with both ends supported by the wall and bolt timber either side of the joint to make them solid joins .. a bit like the old fashioned splinter when you had broken your leg...

Here's a front view of the fireplace. I'm wondering if the damp could be coming up from the footings under the front face of the fireplace and working its way to the right side of the chimney breast to where the damp patch showed up on the plaster. If this is the case, then the front of the...

Ok will take some more photos and post them saturday pm. thanks

I'm now looking at the damp patch on the side of the chimney breast. The fire isn't used, hasn't been for many years although there is a vent at the bottom to allow air flow upwards. I've knocked the damp plaster off the surrounding area to reveal damp(ish) bricks and mortar. The hole...

if it were me, I'd get another builder to give you his opinion of the build and if the cracks are serious and need rectification and if so how much. Or alternatively, you could ask the local building inspector from the council to assess it .. although you might have to pay for his visit.