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Forgot to say, I've found www.segel.co.uk excellent for boilermate spares. Brawa mixing valve is 87+vat (and no I'm nothing to do with them :D )

Hot water turning cold could be the mixing valve, but i would also suspect the coil if you're in a hard water area (some parts of hants can be very bad for hard water) Before spending money on a new mixing valve try disconnecting it and rigging up a connection to where the hot water coil leaves...

Get a drain-back system for solar hot water, or an unvented hot water cylinder ?

Press overheat reset button, also check that f&e tank has got water i it.

Turn the cylinder thermostat up to 60/65 and see if that helps.

Have you checked if the microswitch in the 3 port valve is sticking in the on position ?

If it's the cylinder thermostat wired to the boiler/heating system then yes it's too low. It might be the thermostat that turns the solar pump on when the panel is warmer than the bottom of the cylinder. regards

Sounds like you have a Duoflow system (grey metal control box ?) If you have this the easiest thing to do is fit new wiring centre and swap existing sunvic valve for a honeywell (or similar) valve. regards

Piece of new pipe ?

Agile - blocked cold feed & pumping over is common fault -so I disagree there ! But do agree with sludge /blockage in rest of system maybe being the fault as it seems that pipework is creating "sumps" !

You say you're in a flat ? - does any pipework go under the floor ? (perfect place for blockages sludge etc!)

If a small magnet sticks just cut out pipework and re-do with new, not a big deal.

Where the cold feed from the f&e tamk joins the system (could be just before the pump and in 15mm pipe) can you get a small fridge magnet to stick anywhere ?

Four seasons?

Yes the reset is the white thing in the hole just above the blue dial. Make sure power is off then push it in to reset. Then set blue temp dial to the single dot - not up to max. As said before test for power supply here when switch is turned on to confirm switch/timer is ok Try...

If the flow through the tundish is becoming unmanageable, Turn off water heating - at immersion switches or at heating programmer then turn off water supply to cylinder - should be a lever on the inlet combination valve or a lever or tap on pipework nearby.

Turn top timer & switch on, remove top immersion cover and check for power at thermostat terminals with multimeter. If you have power - it's either safety stat or element If no power its problem with switch. If safety cut out has popped out then push in to reset and try turning both...

Yes as I said, it looks like a combi cylinder, but the OP says they get near mains pressure hot water from taps, so dhw supply is more than likely passing through some sort of heat exchanger making it a thermal store and hence the need for a tmv. Would like to see what's behind the red...

"Additionally while the water initially comes out hot with the hot tap on hard it goes a lot cooler fairly quickly." This could be a faulty mixing valve, Is there a valve with 3 pipes going into it & an adjustment knob, hidden behind the red cylinder jacket somewhere ?

You'd probably be best to get someone who works on these to do it, prv cartridge needs removing to do this and they're quite often seized. If it's bad you might end up having to change the prv cartridge and housing altogether.