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Thank for. so using the example of a wall mounted ipad....which is powered from a usb cable. Would it be acceptable to run the usb cable hidden behind the wall, to a wall mounted mains socket?

Ill be honest....90% of what you said is over my head. The electrician installed the new consumer unit and we have around 20 sockets dotted around the two rooms, which at this point are dead easy to reposition.... hence why thinking about positions before boarding.

Hi guys, Im after some advice after much googling and unable to find a solution. Im working on a barn conversion to games room and bedroom, currently stud walling, and starting to think about the electrics. The room is going to be gadget heavy... things like hidden under counter charging pads...

Thanks... so just install the door liner on the outer edge, then board and skim up to it inside the rest of the frame?

Would that be strong enough to hinge the door off?

Im currently building a stud wall in what was previously a barn. Within the room is a doorway, which has a wall around 50cm thick between the two rooms. Ill probably board and plaster the doorway, as it isnt pretty stone.... but how would you go about installing a door liner and door. I can...

Hi Guys, I'm about to install my first ever door frame and could use some advice from those with experience. I got the closest size frame to the stud width which I could. The wall isnt skimmed yet, but including plasterboard both sides it's 100mm. The frame is 130mm My understanding is a...

No the building isnt listed (thankfully). After some further investigatoion today, the wall does actually already have what your decribe a sand and lime mix). I always wondered why it only went a few feet up the wall!! The floors are solid concrete, but i dont know when....im guessing 1980s...

Thank you that makes sense. Would there be an alternative to air-bricks? The wall is a good 40cm thick and rubble in-filled...so an air brick wouldnt be viable. Could for example, vents be installed at the top of the wall?

Part of our house is a joining a public highway (b road). However the road is around 5 feet above what is the floor inside the house. The property is around 200 years old. The wall which ajoins the road, is constantly damp. It isnt dripping, but its damp to the touch. However, its only damp...

Hi guys. After much advice on these forums, I'm well on with a stud wall in our single skin outbuilding. A couple of images....but I know you guys know what a stud wall looks like :p The battens will have 130mm kingspan between them, with a 30mm breather gap to the wall. On top of the...

So I followed your advice, and have had a few more days on the project. Used the metal brackets, and I recon it has made things twice as fast. Thanks again!

Hi guys, Just after some advice regards an outbuilding I'm renovating. Right now the door is quite large, around 1.2m wide. The door and frame are useless and need ripping out. Ideally, and to reduce cost, Id like to reduce the size of the opening, and then buy a more standard (perhaps used)...

Yeah it does need fixing, as it isn't fixed at the top (its a vaulted ceiling). The meta brackets should do the trick thats a good shout....ive got some from a previous project so should work well. Thanks again for your help.

Thank you much appreciated. That does look like it would save a lot of time. Only problem would be that it would mean I couldn't push the 130 millimeter insulation board in without think of chunk out.

Sorry posisbly daft questions.... how would I fit the packers at the end. The packers are drilled and roe plugged into the wall, which I wouldnt then be able to get to.

I'm currently building my first stud wall after much advice on these forums. But my god, it's taking me forever! The wall is 100mmx50mm studs, sitting around 150mm from the stone wall, in prep for the insulation going in. The issue im having is how long its taking me. Each vertical stud is...

If its an old build in a conservation area, it could be that there is no cavity wall....in which case having a cavity behind the insulation/battens would be correct.... although 2cm would be a bit narrow. Also regards thermal bridging, if the frame has been constructed via a top and bottom...

I'm working on converting an old outbuilding into a couple of rooms. 200 year old building with single stone wall, around 40cm thick. After much advice Ive built the stud wall, and have bagged a good deal on some bulk insulation that will do the walls and floor. I was planning on 100mm but...

Total run is 20m. They are flow and return clipped to eachother...so just a few cm apart.