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I switched the dimmer modules around with one I know works and it still doesn’t work.

Morning, here’s the inside of the dimmer switch. It’s the one on the left that’s for the pendants.

I don’t know if the old ones ever worked as only moved in recently and didn’t ever put bulbs in them as was always planning on replacing them. I did buy dimmable bulbs, but yes good idea I’ll try replacing new with old and see what happens. I’ll also try removing the daisy wires from pendant one...

OK, I will post a pic in the morning. If it helps, at the first pendant there are two cables coming from the ceiling, same at the second pendant, then at the last pendant there’s only one cable, so I’m assuming it’s daisy chained. It’s a new build house, I didn’t touch the wiring in the ceiling...

Will post tomorrow, wife is out and I need someone to take the weight of the lamp before I unscrew it from the ceiling.

Thanks - on the ceiling rose, I have one probe on the live terminal (where the two live wires are) and the other on the neural terminal. When I take the brown wires out of the terminal, I get a normal voltage reading form the wire that goes back to the light switch. But, if I twist both brown...

Thanks but my bigger concern is why the lights aren’t working - there is 0 voltage reading hence the lights aren’t coming on.

Yes measuring voltage. I am taking one measurement from the light switch on the wall and another at ceil rose. It’s at the ceiling rose that I’m getting 0 but only when the two brown wires are touching each other.

Hi - today I have replaced 3 ceiling pendant lights in the kitchen. They are all connected to a dimmer switch. They look great but they don’t work! I got my multimeter out and found something that to me is strange so wondered if someone can help. At the first light on the chain, there are two...

Actually, this socket is connected to the lighting circuit. What’s normally plugged in a an under cabinet light that comes on when you turn on the main bathroom light. So I’m going to need another plan...

Hi - I want to take a feed from this socket for an outside security light. Can I take a spur or am I better off replacing this socket with a double socket and just plugging it in? For information this socket is in a cabinet beneath a wash basin in the bathroom. Many thanks

Hi, yes the new switch was on with a good fuse and no continuity. The power was setting off though, I’m guessing that makes no difference?

The fuse is fine. OK thank you, replacement switch it is then. Hah, wish I’d checked that first before buying and replacing the element, live and learn... thanks.

Surely the switch must be knackered. On the old switch in the pic here I’m getting continuity between the live terminals. How can there not be continuity between the live terminals on the new switch?!

OK done. Power is on. I’m getting a full reading on power in and no reading on power out. With the power off I’m getting continuity between both neutral terminals. But very stuttered/none between the live terminals.

I have a multimeter. Forgive the naivety but what am I testing for? I’ve turned off the power for the first floor sockets and the red light on the timer switch has gone off.

Very annoying, the new one doesn’t work either. What am I missing? I installed a new fused timer switch a couple of months back and everything worked fine. From the pic, it looks like the switch is getting power right? I’ve even changed the fuse and nothing...

Hi - my electric towel rail stopped working. I assume it’s the element. Stupidly, I’ve ordered one without taking the old one out to check the size. The new one will fit and it’s the right wattage, but it’s twice as long as the old one. Does it matter? Please see pic. The old one is in the...

I’m using that white plastic conduit to put the cable into. I thought it was a good idea to use it but also it’s what the original builder used for the first two lights. Anyhow, all done now and it all works perfectly! Many thanks for your help!