Electric Towel Rail Element

Joined
6 Jul 2012
Messages
340
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Location
Berkshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi - my electric towel rail stopped working. I assume it’s the element.

Stupidly, I’ve ordered one without taking the old one out to check the size. The new one will fit and it’s the right wattage, but it’s twice as long as the old one.

Does it matter? Please see pic. The old one is in the sink.

Many thanks.
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Very annoying, the new one doesn’t work either. What am I missing?

I installed a new fused timer switch a couple of months back and everything worked fine.

From the pic, it looks like the switch is getting power right? I’ve even changed the fuse and nothing...
 
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there's the trouble.

Invest in a multimeter.
I have a multimeter. Forgive the naivety but what am I testing for? I’ve turned off the power for the first floor sockets and the red light on the timer switch has gone off.
 
turn off the power.

take the control off the wall and photograph the back so we can see the wiring connected into the terminals.
 
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OK done. Power is on. I’m getting a full reading on power in and no reading on power out.

With the power off I’m getting continuity between both neutral terminals. But very stuttered/none between the live terminals.
 
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Surely the switch must be knackered. On the old switch in the pic here I’m getting continuity between the live terminals.

How can there not be continuity between the live terminals on the new switch?!
 
If the fuse is ok, then the switch is broken.
The fuse is fine. OK thank you, replacement switch it is then. Hah, wish I’d checked that first before buying and replacing the element, live and learn... thanks.
 
Surely the switch must be knackered. On the old switch in the pic here I’m getting continuity between the live terminals. ... How can there not be continuity between the live terminals on the new switch?!
If you mean between the two "L" terminals, then there should be continuity between them with the switch 'on' (AND an OK fuse in it), but no continuity with the switch 'off' (and/or the fuse is absent or blown).

So, was the new switch 'on', with an OK fuse in it, when you found no continuity between Ls? If so, then it certainly would sound as if the switch is faulty.

Kind Regards, John
 
If you mean between the two "L" terminals, then there should be continuity between them with the switch 'on' (AND an OK fuse in it), but no continuity with the switch 'off' (and/or the fuse is absent or blown).

So, was the new switch 'on', with an OK fuse in it, when you found no continuity between Ls? If so, then it certainly would sound as if the switch is faulty.

Kind Regards, John
Hi, yes the new switch was on with a good fuse and no continuity. The power was setting off though, I’m guessing that makes no difference?
 
Hi, yes the new switch was on with a good fuse and no continuity. The power was setting off though, I’m guessing that makes no difference?
Well, yes, it would almost certainly make difference - I had forgotten that it was a lot more complicated than just "a (mechanical) switch and a fuse". If, as is likely, there are some electronics in it, then you might well never see any continuity when it is not 'powered up' - and when it is powered, you obviously would not be able to test for continuity, anyway.

If it were me, I'd probably temporarily connect a substantial incandescent lamp/light bulb (rather than the element) to the L&N output, connect it to power and see if it lights up when I do the appropriate things to the switch/controls.

Have you measured the resistance between the blue and brown wires of the new (and old) element?

Kind Regards, John
 

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