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I like the construction of the framework which looks well thought out and realised. I think perhaps you could have done some better research into upholstery techniques for the padding. Perhaps this area lets the overall product down. I would also suggest you consider at the original stage...

propane is more than sufficient for soldering on all sizes up to 28mm copper. too hot a flame and your far more likely to overheat the copper leading to a poor joint.

what Baxi do you have. you can probably remove just the outer (possibly white)case which should reveal hopefully a data plate and boiler model. there is most likely a simple led display somewhere around the bottom left possibly-if we are talking about the an old solo or w/m model. Are there...

if you visit the energy saving trust website you can do an online calculation. unless your original radiators were oversized then you may struggle to get the necessary heat loss across your htg system to keep your boiler running at its most efficient.

air is not being encourage to vent due to the orientation of the expansion pipe. velocity of water is carrying the lighter air along the pipe into the pump. ideally i would step up the horizontal pipe at the elbow to 28mm then teeing off for open vent followed by the cold feed. You may find...

does it come with free skip hire?

If the boilers firing then its indicating that there is some circulation taking place, as you have a flow switch which will stop the boiler firing if their is none. Do the pipes above the boiler get hot? How hot? Both or just the one? Does the heat make it up to the pump? Is the pump...

I wouldn't advise popping the door of as it forms the seal on the airbox. First call should always be your installer so that they can at least check out their pipework.

re cross flow depends really on type of mixer really. I haven't heard of 'flat type' nrv. What's one of these then?

the air gap is not irrelevant. it is what protects the mains on the hot water side eg at the tank. the protection to the mains at the tap is being offered by the check valve

if we are encouraging op's to repair there own boilers, are they competent to check that they are operating safely after they have carried out work on them?

depends what the part is really. some parts you can get away wih just dropping the pressure of at a drain point on the blr and some parts meed draining- experience is the thing here. ps I don't want to start another is it /isn't it debate. But my understanding of the gas safety regs is that...

You certainly don't need a check valve on the dhw. The air gap in the dhw header gives more than adequate protection to the cold main for this. additionally the flow rate at the tap will be signinficantly reduced by the resistance of the check valve. Your hot water represents a fluid category...

why do you feel that bg have made the matter worse. You started of with no leak/loss of pressure. You then had a leak which has resulted in loss of pressure. BG have been out and, admittedly unsuccessfully, attempted to rectify it. I cannot see why you feel they have made the situation worse.

could you see what had caused it to soot so badly barkie. Poor pilot, flame picture, overgassed?

p.s always loosen and fully tighten immersion bosses etc with cylinders full. pressure exerted stiffens the body of the cylinder

jointing compound on washer but never the thread. and at the risk of being pilloried, unless you intend to drink the hot water, then...

as above. ideally you should have a cold supply that comes directlyof the main-perhaps your kitchen sink or utility? is the flow and pressure significantly better on any of these?

johnd. what's the white jelly indicative of?

thankfully here in the uk, the least you can be shot for is trying to board a london underground train in too much of a hurry.