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I'm having my loft conversion done. I asked the builders to use SoundBloc plasterboard on the party walls to improve the sound insulation. It's now fully plasterboarded (with a single layer of plasterboard), but there are gaps between the adjacent boards, from 2mm to 10mm for the most part. I'm...

Sure, I'm happy to do that. Thanks guys. By "council permission" I meant a certificate of lawfulness.

He argues that the damage may be deeper than what can be seen, and needs a surveyor to determine what needs to be repaired. I don't think the PW Act applies to any remaining work - the steel work is done, the roofing work is done, all that's left to do is internal work - plumbing, electrics...

I'm having a dormer loft conversion done. Before the works started I had plans drawn by an architect and got council permission (not planning permission, that wasn't needed needed). However, I didn't serve Party Wall notice. While the builders were putting in the steal beams, they caused damage...

I'm doing a loft conversion, the plans have a bedroom and shower room and have been approved by the council. The builder said he can also fit a small kitchenette in the bedroom. It would be just a sink, a unit or two, fridge, microwave and electric hob. He says he's done it in previous loft...

Cheers, re the 'damp', there used to be a fitted wardrobe there which I removed, I think it's glue or something that was used to keep the chipboard in place (along with the screws). It's only peeling off in one place, the rest is ok. It may not be easy to strip it, but I can try. Robbie - what...

I have a textured ceiling in a bedroom. I'd like to make it smooth. A friend of mine, who is a builder, told me it's asbestos and it's best to plaster it over. Upon closer inspection it appears to be flaking off and I thought I could just scrape it off like wallpaper. But what if it's asbestos...

Yes, I'm going to have a bedroom and shower room in the loft and the wiring will be concealed. I'll ask them about replacing the CU. By the way, I've recently had my electric meter replaced. Since then, the CU has tripped on a few occasions when I have isolated a circuit to work on it, e.g. to...

Thanks guys. One more question. If I were to upgrade my fusebox to the new standards i.e. change the trip threshold from 100mA to 30mA, would I have to replace the whole fusebox or just one part (such as a fuse)? Would it be costly? I would much prefer such a centralised solution, for many...

Thanks TTC. I got the link right - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/KBRCD9000.html? - you need to copy and paste it, because the forum software is messing with links. If I understand correctly, your suggestion to get an RCD socket doesn't just apply specifically to this particular socket...

16 Amps I haven't found anything that would stop working beside the boiler. It's possible that the other cable is not in use anymore (?). I have a battery-operated British Gas detector. The cupboard has grille vents, one at the top and one at the bottom. It doesn't really get hot in there...

Here is a photo: The boiler is on its own circuit according to the card on the fuse box (although there are 2 cables coming out of that slot). The isolation switch does have its own fuse. Thanks, will do.

One of the bedrooms has a cupboard with a combi gas boiler. The boiler is connected to the mains via an isolation switch, which is mounted on the wall inside the cupboard. I've bought a somewhat bulky wireless printer and thought the cupboard would make a good house for it. As there are no...

I'm planning on using the lounge as a bedroom, which will make it an en-suite cloakroom. (Later on, when I have more funds, I'd like to build a conservatory, which would become the new lounge / living room). I don't have any documents to prove when the work was completed, so I'm not sure how...

I've recently had a small cloakroom (toilet + washbasin) built in the downstairs lounge. It has 2 supply pipes (cold and hot water) going into it from the kitchen under the kitchen and lounge floor, and a waste pipe (from the toilet and washbasin) which comes out of it through the external wall...

Cheers, that's good news! I was worried it was something that would be expensive to fix.

Here is a photo. The horizontal-ish white pipe is the sink waste and the one coming out of it with the plastic cup is the washing machine waste.

There is no washing machine connected. The washing machine waste pipe has an open end directed upwards, so smells can indeed get inside through it. I put an upside-down yogurt cup on it to stop them, but I'm not sure how effective that is. Isn't the drain not supposed to smell in the first place?

If that's the case here, would that mean the smell is coming from the soil underneath the house because it's flooded with foul water leaking from the gully, or is it that the leak is the reason why the drain itself smells, and the smell is getting into the house via the waste pipes?

Thanks John. I haven't cleaned the sink with Washing Soda Crystals, might well do that but that doesn't seem to be the problem here as it's a sewage smell, the same smell that comes from the drain? I've cleaned the sink trap recently (like a week ago) and a plumber did the same in April while...