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I've been tiling me bathroom.............I just love the way those naughty little spacers are desperate to leap out the tiles the second ya start 'adjusting' them!! Anyway, I've been using screwfix cement adhesive for the wall tiles, can I use this for the glass mosaics?

Solar gain is a two edged sword, nice in the winter................dreadful in the summer..........better to try n limit it with insulation. Thermal store is great for internal walls n floors as they'll act like radiators, but external walls would surely just be heat sinks

I'm happy with U n R values but the W/m thing is waay too clever for lil' ol' me. losing 10 times less heat is therefore a 1000% improvement If heat isn't gettin sucked through the walls/floor. ceilings, the stat will switch the boiler off more often n so the owner will use less gas

Yes, silly me, my question is nothing more than theoretical, so perhaps I should ask it another way, a modern home to the latest insulation spec will lose heat much slower than it's victorian equivalent, but how much slower 50% 80% 20%?

.............n there's a million facts n figures to support it n given the choice, I would live in a brick house with 24" walls, 12" of which would be polystyrene, but that aint gonna happen. So, lets say I have a modern house insulated to the latest standards with a gas boiler n radiators...

BOOM!.................no frost on house walls, good man Wood

I'm fitting a smaller window in my bathroom today (12 Dec) (each side of the opening will be bricked up by 9"), I'm thinking of adding some frostproofer in the mix, does the stuff actually work?

Update; the boiler has an electronic fault, new part on order with the nice Intergas man that's why there wasn't 230v when there should have been. Then we must add in a faulty gas meter regulator (6milbar workin pressure whatever that means) n no flame detection devices on gas hob. Who would...

'Has he set it to on?' Muggles..............gotta be honest, I have no idea..................do you mean PERMANENTLY on? which is then only interrupted by the T4 saying 'it's too hot or time to shut down' a good question that I can't answer sadly. The business of 'Opentherm' ............if the...

I have thrown the towel in!, pressing all the menus is a massive pain in the rear end and is not in the slightest CUSTOMER user friendly. An intergas engineer arrives on Thursday to end my woes. As a customer, I HATE the touchpad menu pressing, the boiler may have the most advanced n reliable...

Lads, I value your help cos let's face it, you boys know your stuff n I don't have a clue, so let's go back to basics, my boiler has it's own programmer (this is useless cos the boiler is in the cold garage n I'm not goin out there every time I want to change a time setting) so I have a T4...

It's all a mystery to me, suffice is to say my plumber said I wouldn't have had any problems like this with a wooster, an Intergas might be a rockstar of a boiler with only 4 movin parts.....................but it aint a lot of good if the electronics require one to be a brain surgeon to get the...

Jeez Picasso................that's blown my brains out. I seem to remember in one of my many calls to the tech dept, I can recall getting them to talk me through pressing a load of menus on the boiler to switch off the internal clock and the programmer because at one point the prog stat wasn't...

If the pipes are lagged (grey foam type) I presume that they are better protected than the boiler..............or am I wrong?

Another question, the boiler is fitted in the garage that is integral with the house, I guess that the boiler has it's own frost stat, but should I be wiring in another one?

It's an Exclusive 36, yes, I am measuring the voltage at pins 1 n 2 n across to earth and neutral(therefore bypassing the T4 prog stat) and getting 0 volts...............I wonder what the point of X3 pin 3 is for?

X3 has 3 terminals, the technical lot are saying pins 1 and 2 are 230 to the progrmmer n switchline return.............BUT pins 1 and 2 measure 0v n pin 3 measures 230 volts. I want to use the 230v switchline to power the roomstat n 2 port UFH valve and pump but can't due to no voltage

X3 is supposed to supply 230v, the Honeywell T4 prog roomstat should be switching this, therefore I can use that to supply switched 230v to the roomstat n control the 2 port valve n pump.

Soooooooooooooo. I had an intergas boiler fitted on 20 Nov................I hate the thing, should have had a wooster!...............spent 5 days telling their technical lot there's 0 volts at x3, n they've spent 5 days sayin that my Fluke T6 must be wrong. The UFH has been superseded (wiring...

I've just moved into a house, had a new boiler fitted, but the plumber hasn't wired up the UFH. This system has been superseded by a control centre and 2 wire actuator heads. Can anyone tell me please how to wire the heads (2 greens, blue n brown).