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Somebody smack that bloke round the back of the head with a lump of 4x2....................don't he know large lumps of timber are gonna warp or split in time, that's why God invented veneered chipboard!!!!

Gotta love the bloke's equipment, but jeez, all that effort for something blinkin useless!! yeah, I think the best way would be to make a 45 degree fence for my router n make many passes..............think I'll give the idea up!

I want to have my kitchen worktop as a base unit end panel too (it's actually a breakfast bar). But I don't want to see the edge of the breakfast bar with the worktop beneath it, I presume I have to use a circular saw set to 45 degrees in order to acheive this 'no edge' look. I'd rather buy a...

Yeah JD...............eeeerrrr, I've got the wrong end of the stick haven't !?............you'll have to forgive me gang, poor old fella, just can't seem to keep up with the 8 page threads like I used to, thank the lord I've still got me ravishing good looks!!

Quite so, poor and MP aren't two words that really go together. Am I wrong in assuming someone was forced to totter off to prison then?

Obviously, most of what you lads are saying is all going waaay over my poor little head, but to add a couple of points, perhaps the reason the poor sparkies had to go to prison was a direct result of the poor woman being the wife of....................an MP. Years ago I remember being told about...

You're right Jad, but you can't knock a man for being interested in a subject and wanting to know more can ya?

It is my understanding that if you have an aluminium heat exchanger in your boiler and you do a load of solder joints, you then have to bung in a neutraliser to kill the flux residues or they'll corrode a hole in the ally................but how many joints do you have to do before you must use...

Thanks Loop eeeeerrrrrrr help me out Apt................if I have a house with all copper water pipes and I attach a bonding clamp and a 10mm cable to that and the MET, surely you have just earthed all your water pipes (not that they needed it because they were already earthed by the metal pipes)

This is very interesting..............let's say a cable near my kitchen copper pipe becomes bare and the live touches the pipe, that pipe then becomes live, but it's connected to the blue plastic incoming main, but the copper is connected to earth via the not very conductive...

Thanks lads for all your answers, sadly some seem to say do it and some don't do it. Here's a thought..............the plastic and metal pipes are surely connected by the conductive water within the pipe which will create conductivity from the metal main in the road right up to the metal tap at...

The incoming main has been changed to plastic, there is as section of copper that connects to that which supplies the kitchen, then it changes to plastic when it enters the bathroom. Is it pointless to put an earth clamp onto the copper and run a cable back to the MET?

Brill, well done lads, I've learnt something there!...............whichever room has the roomstat in, standard rad valves should be fitted to rads in that room I presume in order to avoid a conflict between them.

The kitchen has been knocked into the dining room and I've had an extension built on the rear of those..............so I now have a 25' x 25' rear room. Will the regs inspector want me to fit TRV's to the new rads? or does that rule only apply to 'new builds'? I don't want to fit them if I don't...

Daz..............I presume you're a floor fitter? it seems from the different complaints I've read on forums that Karndean is easier to scuff and scratch than Amtico and that darker colours show the scratches more than lighter ones. Luckily I have a suspended timber floor because it seems...

Unless you pay a vast sum to have your floor prepared to the exact spec with the right adhesives the stuff is likely to lift up in the future (the product may have a 20yr guarantee....BUT....the floor fitting only has a one year guarantee). Then the stuff DOES scratch/ scuff and will need...

If it was me, I'd foam the celotex to the p/b then foam the combined unit to the wall, remember you are also supposed to bung in at least 3 mechanical fixings per board in order to comply with fire regs (if there's a fire the boards may fall off the wall and block an exit route)

Be careful...............if the board is aluminium faced, the only thing that will stick it long term is foam adhesive (the minimal expanding type), you'll then have to foam the plasterboard to that.

If there's another house the other side with a chimney stack, there'll be no need for a gap. When I did mine, I rendered the inside bricks with sand/ cement/ lime (one coat) then painted black, three years later no cracks etc with my Stovax standing in front. If you can get logs free great...

The steel has been red oxided, ..............do I just squirt foam adhesive (not the expanding type) onto the plasterboard and prop it up under the steel?