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they look like old cracks to me

they look like old cracks to me

wet sand ? no idea why that's in their, your cavity should be dry and should be hollow to at least 150mm below dpc , clean out all the wet sand and part bricks as this will bridge the cavity and allow damp to pass through from outside wall to inside wall . :)

agree don't see how the path has anything to do with it , damp cant pass through a cavity , try removing a brick to see if cavity is bridged :D

can you get a heavy duty grill for an aco drain .ive put a standard one in on a job ( 1 m long x 100mm wide with a stainless top) but the guy uses a fork lift now and then and its bent the grill a bit , I just want to replace the grill if poss , my local merchant said they don't stock them ...

thing is though the wall is already up i need a solution somehow :D

i need to put a 6 ft fence on a 9 inch brick wall ,the wall is 1 course of blocks high with a engineering brick on top whats the best way to fix the post ? many thanks

yeah i would just brick up the jambs with commons aswell no need for conc and re bar :D

thats correct mate , just how i would do it :D

why have wooden stilts , why not masonry ( ie brickwork or blockwork ) ??

just what i was thinking reg ,why use concrete for the floor? i would just use conc pads below ground then masonary to floor level , then timber :)

don,t build on the clay mate its about the worst soil to build on !! better to have a conc footing and put some reinforceing bar up out the concrete 50mm behind your stonework so its in the middle of your 100mm thick concrete backwall :)

yep 3 and rising :D i wont be doing a thing this week :(

wow those blocks are huge they look man enough on there own !! having said that putting 9 m2 of concrete behind it is a no no it will simply push the wall over and is not needed any way , your plan of 100 mm is better , is thier a concrete footing under your new bit ?

im not sure what you mean by sandstone blocks a pic would help , but i woould of thought you should be able to cousre it with the blockwork behind , failing that you could cut strips of expanding metal and use that , i would also fill the cavity with dryish concrete :D

agree with the others i would guess your dpc is at the top of your airbrick ,the best way is to check with a small screw driver and hammer, and chip a bit of the bed joint out, you could also leave a gravel strip between house and patio if you overly worried .

yes there is a method i have seen done on renovation jobs were you cut a chase in both skins , insert some right angle re bar then fill chase with resin, can be done in a couple of hours :)

if the slabs aint rocking then it sounds like a repiont , probably caused by frost

i would off used a lintel and blockwork myself , if only to match existing , i know its only a garage but how does he plan to make good the blockwork , it looks like a dog has chewed the new opening!! :lol:

not quite sure what you meen, but leave as much of the wall up as possible, the other end will be fine on internal leaf