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Many thanks for your advice, surely if the damp proof membrane and underlay boards are laid correctly the climate underneath should have no affect? We are also using engineered boards which should be more stable than solid wood.....

hi there, we have all the right damp proof membrane and underlay, the concrete undulates so levelling would be difficult with ply.

Well the money side of things is up to me isn't it, I wanted to make sure there wasn't a technical reason why it couldn't be done bit by bit. Many thanks

Hi there, where we have concrete meeting timber floors, what's the best way to get the different levels to meet? The concrete is a bit lower than the timber but the timber isn't exactly level when you put a spirit level on it. So self levelling screed won't set flat to the timber will it? I need...

Hi there. Following some building works and a total renovation, we've ended up getting the whole house rewired. So, it needs to be tested and certified, which the electrician on the job is to do. Thing is he keeps putting off the 2nd fix until the whole house is done and we are only just...

The title says it all, do you use caulk or another filler and then how do you get a straight line with the paint? I've tried various over the years but I'm not totally happy with the results I'm getting. Many thanks

Hi there. I ended up having a whole new central heating system. Later we went for a megaflo to sort the shower pressures out. Works well.

I see it only comes in white and cream colours though. Any other options anyone? One thing we thought of doing was using a tyrolean mix (which I am told you can get with various colours in it, is that right?) and then rubbing it up so it's not so textured. Any advice greatly received.

Will do, thanks, is it applied with brush by decorator or trowel by plasterer?

Other than using a masonry paint or going for a Tyrolean finish, what are the other options for finishing render, preferably something with a colour in it so I don't have to paint it after. Many thanks.

Hi there. the door's being fitted tomorrow, it's a hardwood door and frame. The joinery that made the frame supplied it with a rubber sealing strip at the bottom which is nailed to the frame and which I'm told the bottom of the door needs to be routed over. The advice I'm getting is to take...

Well many thanks for trying anyway. I noticed in Wickes the other day they have fixings for going into block. They're like frame fixings, long and come with screws, but expensive at about a fiver for a handful.

I totally agree with you. It's an old thread this one, in the end I was lazy and used the bath panel that came with the bath! Might "upgrade" some day though.

Hi there, I have had some building work done so that now I have some wooden floors and some concrete, all butting up to each other. I want to lay ceramic/stone in some places, in others I want to lay laminate/hardwood floors. What prep is required in both cases? I read on here that for...

Well, I've decided to go for the above dimmer with some of their low voltage transformers. I'll report back on this thread when it's done.

Anybody tried Varilight? I'm thinking of having this switch http://www.1stopelectrics.com/product/idqi254ms/4g_4x250w_1w%2C_2w_or_multi_way_remote_touch_dimension_screwless_premium_white/ They suggest on their website that it should be coupled with their transformers for noise free...

Just found that Plasplugs do some thermal block fixings http://www.plasplugs.com/fixings_thermal.html

Great idea, more power to your elbow. I'll delay ordering bags of fixings until I hear from you and get on with some painting then. Many thanks.

Much the same feeling about this here. :( I'm thinking about using frame fixings as well, but I'm sure I read on these boards some while ago about a fixing designed for this type of wall and finish......... Looks like I'll keep looking.

Well I have to hang kitchen cupboards and shelves and a bracket for a flat screen TV (fairly heavy).