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Since OP I have taken it off, cleaned off the silicone, refitted, and this time waited over a week for the silicone to go off before testing the full bath drain method.

As I say, that's when draining a full bath. No signs of this issue at all when; showering run the bath filler at full pelt with the plug open (the filler is right above the waste) filling the bath (even up to full) with the plug closed a rested full bath a half-full bath with someone in it...

Thanks. Just to add it's dripping at a certain position rather than everywhere/multiple points.

Hi, Had to replace my bath waste/trap recently and only when emptying a bath it drips. Showering and filling the bath is fine which suggests the plug and it's seal are ok. It's almost as if the gravity of a full bath is causing the water to overflow in the trap and come back out. It's a...

Hi, I have 44x0.9mm stops and need to replace on one door. Really struggling to find this dimension. Plus mine are all bullnosed on the non-door slam side. Any ideas? Cheers

Well good news is that the hoses are a perfect fit and it all works. Is there any guidance as the hose length? The Geberit flush button instructions say to leave 20cm coming through the hole where the flush button is going to sit, but doesn't say how much slack to leave inside.

I think if I was redoing the bathroom I'd have 2 super quiet fans on all the time, one drawing air in and the other out.

But I don't think many people would want to turn the light on basically all throughout 'summer time'!!

I've seen the Manrose MF100T is highly rated, which is around £50. But if I can go even better than that for say up-to £100 that's fine. Don't really want to re-core though for say 125mm or 150mm ducting!

But that means I'd always have to turn the light on to engage the fan?

Hi I have a HIB Cyclone inline fan (bulbless) at the moment, right in the center of the ceiling. Duct from grill to fan is less than a meter, then from fan to outside wall is slightly more than a meter. Even with 2 windows open and the fan on, still gets way more steamy than I'd say it should...

I have tado AND came from Honeywell, albeit a different stat to you. Did you go through the tado guides; for me I put in the model of the boiler, the stat and the wireless receiver and it walked me through step by step, with pictures. If your only struggle is working out what wires go in to...

If that's the only caveat it's worth a try as I can return if no good.

Hi, Are they interchangeable? I have a SIAMP pneumatic cistern and am looking at a Geberit pneumatic flush button. Thanks

Probably not a DIY job though as if I mess the current fitting up I'd have to bust out the ceiling below to make it good again... the toilet faces the outside wall, where the stack is and to get to the toilet the waste runs across the bathroom in the joist bay.

Actually, just seen this one: https://mcalpineplumbing.com/wc-connectors/flexible-wc-connectors/wc-f26pc-plain-end-outlet-straight-flexible-wc-connector This seems like the best option if I end up with a push-fit socket (however I end up with one)?

Just to confirm, the waste coming through the floor is already below the level of pan spigot. I think it's the sharpness of bend that the flexi has to take to get in it, which bows it upwards. pan spigot center from finished floor: 175mm top of grey waste from finished floor: 40mm

I did look at those to begin with, but the angle is probably a bit too wide; the pan connector would probably have to go uphill to then angle down in to it. The Marley one I showed above is really tight angle and would be tight to the floor.