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Hi guys, just looking to double check my deck subframe, I’m planning to put a hot tub on it. Image attached. The whole thing is constructed from 50x150mm treated timber and about 100mm off the ground. The red lines are the bearers 50mm x 150mm timbers spaced 1.6m apart resting on uprights...

I'm sure this has been posted but after searching through all the archives i'm still a little unsure. I'm building a ground level deck 3x6m in a yard surrounded by 4 brick walls, the ground is currently just mud and clay soil under that. I'm just a little unsure of the footings, mainly because...

I'm definitely putting straps in (from the joists, over the frame and connecting to the brick), just wasn't sure of the best way to connect the frame to the brick as well.

Okay so in your opinion am I fine to just attach the stud construction on top of the brick with bolts and sleeves?

I'm a bad bricky and can't find matching bricks, any other brick would look ridiculous. A stud wall on top is the best solution both economically and aesthetically.

Thanks Woody, really appreciate the response. I thought I might need straps too. So to fix the short stud wall on top of the brick I'm fine just using standard masonry fixings? As the straps will be wrapping over them, from the joists to the bricks Could you speculate how the current roof is...

So I have an existing stand alone garage of cavity brick construction that needs a new roof and roof joists, currently the brickwork is about 1900mm high and as I'm putting a new roof on, i'd like to raise the overall height to 2500mm (it's on a boundary). My plan is to build a stud wall about...

My internal garage brick walls get saturated with condensation, hoping you guys can shed some light as to why and how to stop it. The walls a double skin with cavity. Roof is ply with felt top. Where the roof extends out past the walls all the way around, there is an gap underneath the roof...

Thanks for all the advice guys, I got the twistfix ties and started putting them in (accrington brick takes forever to drill), i've done about 5 so far as per the instructions (max 220mm from opening and 300mm vertical). The wall stiffened up immediately after the first one, however it still...

Ah I'm with you, the whole front elevation was repointed with lime mortar a few months ago, they ground out the beds. I think it's just the angle of the photo that makes it look half done. Thanks for all the advice, whats the best way to tie the partition in after the fact? Some sort of corner...

Thanks for all the info, really appreciate it. How can you tell remedial pointing has taken place? I'm 99% sure I caused the crack between the wall and partition when I was pushing the wall back and forth, the partition upright isn't attached to the wall in anyway. I'll use twistfix for now...

Thanks for the response guys, this is exactly what I thought. The downstairs section of the same wall had the cavity open in the same way when I was re-plastering (the wall was solid though), I could see all the way down the cavity in to next door. I could also see brick ties that had rusted to...

Ah thanks for this.

Hes a picture of the outside, it's the top window: You can see the stones underneath the gutter, they extend over both brick walls, you can see the back off it from the inside. Below is a picture of the back room on the same floor where I have removed the plaster right to the ceiling, you...

Sorry I missed you're above comment. The room is on the first floor, the same wall directly below on the ground floor is perfectly fine (i've had this back to brick too). I've attached the pics you requested, you can see how the joists are attached like this, there is no wall plate: I've...

Yeah that's what I thought, when they where replaced with upvc they just packed it out with timber. What would knocking off more plaster achieve by the way?

Yes that's exactly what I'm saying. Above the window seams perfectly fine and solid. No I haven't knocked any plaster off the next room as all the plaster is in good condition.

When you say simpler, are you referring to the steel brackets with those protruding arms that a shelf can just slide on?

Okay so I've uploaded some images below, two of the wall and one of the cavity gap, I removed all the blown plaster a while ago, and basically the walls moves as a whole from the lintel at the bottom of the window to the dado rail at the top and from the timber to about a foot in to the next...

Ill take a pic shortly. We have already replaced pvc windows with some more pvc. Yes there is an original timber lintel above the window. I can't see a wall plate, it's too obscured but I can just make out the edge of the first floor joists, and they look like they rest directly on the inside...