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I want to replace this Central Heating Control unit so it's more in keeping with the kitchen. I don't need top of the range just something similar to what we have and maybe a 7-day program option. The range at Screwfix baffles me. What would you recomend. The pictures of what I currently have...

No hex nut or anything that would help me to unscrew it. I may just have to grip it well with a pair of mole grips

The photo below is my leaking CO2 regulator. The leak was coming from where the gauge crews into the top of the regulator but now I've used PTFE tape it's now forcing it out of the bottom where the inlet pipe joins the regulator block. Would this pipe usually screw in and how would I fix it...

Just ordered the LS-X off Amazon for £6.05. I'll report back when I've attacked the fitting with it

Awesome, thanks. Now to decide which one to get! Cheers for the help :-)

The I have some JG Speed Fit fittings that had threads on one end and push fit on the other. I'm happy to try the Fernox stuff as it sounds like it'll do the same job. The Loctite stuff on eBay is only £1 more so wouldn't mind paying the extra if I would see the benefit. Is the...

I have seen Fernox LS-X 50ml on Amazon for £6.05 but heard the Loctite was the dogs. Never had dealings with this type of product before so it's new territory for me. It's to seal a regulator gauge. Does this stuff only work on metal threads or can you get stuff that works on metal and push...

I would suggest gmail too. Not only does it have a decent address book but you can sync your gmail address book with most smartphones so you can have all your contacts stored in the cloud. If you have an iDevice however I'd get a cloud email address

I need to get some thread sealant as the thread keeps stripping the PTFE tape. The diameter of the thread is about 10mm Whats the difference between the Loctite 452 and 742? I've had a look and the only information that really seems to be different is that the 452 has a maimum thread width of...

It's used to carbonate the larger, beer etc in the cornelius keg instead of using sugar

Hi all. I have a homebrew setup at home and recently acquired a CO2 cylinder and regulator. Anyways the regulator seems to be leaking CO2 (very slowly but still leaking). I have jus read on the back of the PFTE tape packaging that you should use a specially manufactured PTFE tape for gas...

The little tank in the loft (the copper pipe, top left is just inside the water) The big tank in the loft (the copper pipe, top left is not in the water)

Come to think of it no, it isn't connected to any power supply (I just presumed it was the pump as that's what the professional plumber told me it was) Below is what my airing cupboard looks like. Would the pump be the blue thing and how do I bleed it as it doesn't seem to have a bleed valve...

Only me again. So I last bled the rad and pump on Monday eve and I've had to do them again this morning. When I say I'm bleeding the pump it actually has a sticker on it that says magnaclean on it. This is the pump right?

No TVR's on any of the rads. My dad does have a lathe so I shall have a go at grinding the key down this week

The rounded bleed screw isn't actually rounded in the end (I managed to get it out with a pair of pliers). It now looks like I can't get the bleed key far enough into the radiator for it to catch the screw

The radiators bleed OK yes. A question about this though; am I meant to stop bleeding the radiators when a steady stream of water starts coming out or when the escaping air starts to bubble with the water? I am having to bleed the radiators about once every week/two weeks. I thought about a leek...

The boiler doesn't seem to be overly noisy when it turns on. I have no idea what the boiler is ranged to I'm afraid. How would I find this out? I presume the heat exchanger is part of the boiler

Sorry to revive an old post guys. I managed to sort the F25 error by bleeding the pump and the upstairs radiators but it only fixes it for a short period of time and then the F25 error comes back and I have to re-start the process again. I have a radiator in the bathroom that I can't bleed...

I have I'm talking about the horizontal beams here in the picture above. They are about every 2 feet attached to every roof beam. I'm going to guess that they are to stop the roof flattening out but is it necessary to have them on every one or could I remove every other one? Cheers guys...