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I cannot get my (admittedly ancient) Myson Velaire CH & HW boiler to run...and we've now been without heat for about a fortnight (the coldest fortnight for the system to fail!) The final section of the oil intake tube is transparent so I can see the air bubbles, but despite many many attempts...

That had crossed my mind too, but the quarry tiled flooring has a border running around it a couple of tiles in from the walls. I don't mind furniture (with legs) covering some of that, but a big planter might spoilt the look...so I was thinking of something more permanent with the border...

Yes...that makes sense... maybe with moss/bark chippings to make it look more permanently planted.

That's really helpful. Thank you. I suppose the back wall and the inside of the new construction could also be hardiebackered? Would be waterproof/water resistant? (joints siliconed?)

When you say "timber" were you envisaging solid timber or some kind of frame? Well, ideally, for a true traditional look, it would be brick or stone to match other walls; but ours are plastered and painted anyway so I was thinking of not introducing another texture. I guess whatever I do will...

Conservatory (three stone walls and one of sliding doors) with recently quarry tiled floor (chipboard with hardiebacker on top). Before I finish the tiling (I'm working towards the back wall) I'm now thinking of running a low wall along one length, about 18"-24" out from the existing wall. This...

Hardiebacker has a website, with fitting instructions you can look at: www.jameshardie.co.uk/import/Documents/HardieBacker%20Product%20&%20Installation%20Guide.pdf

Pity though, as the whole point of these wood-effect tiles is to look like wood. You don't usually see grout between real wood planks.

Thanks. The chipboards are nailed to the joists. Do I need to screw them down as well, before fitting the Hardiebacker?

Aargh! It's all so confusing. I've seen beads of adhesive suggested for no-more-ply, but Hardiebacker recommends combe d out all-over adhesive. In which case the sealant would be, presumably, to protect the chipboard from moisture from the adhesive! They've also said that the adhesive is to even...

OK. Thanks. TBH the idea of using adhesive as well as screws came from discussions I've read (possibly on here?) where e.g. pros have criticised amateurs for just screwing the backerboard, and not using adhesive. Apparently the adhesive is supposed to make up for minor imperfections or voids...

ToppsTiles have suggested a BAL sealant that soaks into the chipboard - but maybe, according to Yeahaa, I don't need to bother with this? They have suggested rapidset adhesive for the Hardiebacker. I'm about to collect some from them. Does this seem right? Also they originally sold me...

Thanks for the response. It seems to be T&G. As I found when removing the carpeting it's nailed onto the joists, but the joints between boards seem very secure, so it must be T&G. Ultimate finish will be quarries. Conservatory/garden room, so occasional spillages from overwatering, and the...

Ah. OK. Thank you! I'd thought the chi[pboard neede to be sealed to assist the adhesive in some way. So the idea of sealing the chipboard is to make it more waterproof in case of water ingress? This is a conservatory/garden room floor, so the most it should get wet will be possible spillages...

Chipboard flooring. Old stuff, not green. Have bought Hardiebacker, and slow set grey adhesive (for quarry tiles). 1) Assume I can use the same adhesive for the Hardiebacker? 2) What's the best sealant for the chipboard prior to installing the Hardiebacker? (Have gathered from reading on here...

Yes, they are all possibilities. Guess I wopn't know until roof comes off. Also no idea what thickness - although assuming thick since it's a roof. In principle, though, is ply just as good as no-ply? What are the supposed merits of the latter?

We're fitting a new roof to 1970s sunroom, and incorporating an orangery roof lantern. We want to tile the floor which is currently chipboard and carpeted. Going to use small black and red, Victorian style, tiles. I'm guessing we'll need to put something over the chipboard. The no-ply stuff...

AFAIK everything is off the cold tank. Hot from a cylinder on the ground floor (I'd turned off the cold feed to that). Cold water turned off outside, and opened all taps. But I didn't drain the shower. The amount of water that came from the fitting as I loosened the connecting nut seemed like...

Just tackling a bit of last-minuet d-i-y before guests arrive for the weekend...updating an old Mira 33 shower with a thermostatic bar etc. Turned off the water, emptied all the taps around the house...started to undo the fittings to the old shower control, and cold water gushing out. Also...

I answered my own question by using basecoat followed by multifinish, then tiled. Seems to be OK.