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the seller is right, you need the adhesive because concrete blocks are very porous. its very different to fixing onto a concrete screed. Frankly its not worth skimping. Make sure you fix them with a notched trowel and spot them. Yes you should seal them, before and after you grout, but...

the setting out on that wall is wrong. he's allowed himself to end up with a silly cut after a full tile instead of working the cuts. Not sure where your going to end up with this job but no, grout or silicone will look c**p on that. Same goes for the gap at the top BTW, bad setting out.

before i start, are you sure they are glass tiles? 600x300 glass would be unusual, but not impossible. Anyway, dot and dab of any tile is a complete no-no, but especially for large tiles. They should be fixed using a notched trowel to achieve 90%+ coverage. Also the substrate looks pretty...

If your going by the book, 1mm a day is right. The tiles aren't usually porous, so forget that side of it. Your tiler is also right.

i'd agree. tiling 101 - find the lowest point and dont start with a full tile. silicone will cover it up but look awful in 12 months time

that sounds perfect - aqua board in the shower\wet areas is ideal. Primer wise, your usually best following the adhesive manufacturer, but any acrylic bonding agent will be fine.

plastering is a waste of time and money. plasterboard is a better surface for tiling. you need to prime it first for most adhesives. word of warning though, your better off still with a backerboard - they are much better for wet areas, MR plasterboard will need tanking really

if you are going by the book they are a bit big for a tubbed adhesive, especially on a tanked background. you'd be better off with a cement based bagged adhesive. That said, those guidelines get broken lots, and theres a good chance it will be fine

yep it doesnt work like that! they will take in a tiny amount of water, but not enough to notice a water line diff. Just drop a drop of water onto the face, leave for 20 seconds and then wipe off - you should see a damp patch where the water was. You can seal the tiles after fitting - loads...

Yep, making up 2 mm with tile adhesive is fine

Hi ree. tile adhesive will stick to bonding, but all the products we sell state that they should not be used on bonding, its high suction and crumbles too easily and if you check with a manufacturer they will mostly say the same. Render is a great surface, but take days (sometimes weeks) to dry...

AdamCH is right, bonding isn't suitable for tiling onto, render takes donkeys to dry. If the voids are shallow enough, patch them with some floor adhesive, dries very quickly.

the best thing you can do is go and hire a RUBI TS70. its a dry cutter, but for straight cuts its the best you'll get and the cuts will look perfect. then use a wet cutter only for shaped cuts.

if they are solid, then buy some single part flexi adhesive (e.g. granfix fastset flexible) and some acylic bonding agent. Mix some handfuls of dry adhesive with undiluted acrylic into a slurry and paint it all over the vynil, let it set, then follow on with the same adhesive - tile as normal...

not sure day rate is ever a good way to go, unless its backed with how many days - exactly the issue you describe. per m2 is more normal, and usually fair to both parties

yep. for two reasons really - 1)they wont back you up without it, and 2) it stops movement which is the main reason. In all seriousness, we do see failures from people who dont.

in case it helps... http://www.nomoreply.net/installation/overboarding-timber-floors/ the joist centres sound fine. no issue with the gaps, that just sounds like normal floorboard shrinkage.

Yes - in general ;-) we sell a huge amount of no more ply a month, to trade and retail and only see failures if its been badly fitted or assessed - no different to ply in that sense. We also sell hardie an its a similar story. Regardless of using a cement based board like no more ply or a...

Yes, its wall adhesive. on a floor you need to use bagged adhesive, plus for tiles that large you need a cement based adhesive so that it will set. As you say your on a bathroom floor, if its a wooden one you'll need to overboard it first, then use a bagged, flexi adhesive. Use a decent trade...

roughly yes your right, but i'd up that trowel size for a large heavy porcelain tile. your looking to get 90% coverage, go 8-10mm min. in terms of the amount of thickness it adds you can roughly divide the trowel depth in half .