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ah yep, in that case we agree sorry. That said i'd be surprised if theres enough lateral to worry about

Hi AdamCh - as long as you dont exceed 150w/m2 (fine for a secondary heat source) then you can go direct onto ply. Marmox\no more ply over the ply is always going to be better, but as height is the main issue it could be removed providing the ply is fixed at 200mm centres Ditra\Durabase...

You'll get far better insulation from 50mm celotex underneath than an insulation board, so yes if your taking the floor up anyway its a much better option. As a secondary heat source electric UFH will be fine. If you use noggins etc to make sure the ply has no movement, then no need to use a...

The insulation boards are always required - especially over wood which is an insulator anyway. best bet for me would be to take up the floorboards, insulate underneath with celotex\kingspan, then fit the ply, then fit the electric UFH direct to the ply. one thing you dont say is what your...

no problem mechanically fixing it, but you usually have to use adhesive too so the voids\diff in levels are taken up

bonding is worse than skim - its like a sponge! finish mostly fails because of its substrate. I'd say your best approach is to chop the bonding off then fix cement backerboards over the brick\blockwork. depending on your choice of board you can dot\dab this with the adhesive the manufacturer...

totally up to your style choice. the brick bond usually shown is just a suggestion really, i've seen them square fixed, herringbone and vertical

they are a bit of a PIA to grout, but it can be done with patience. you basically point them rather than grout them so its takes real time. If you are fitting them in a wet area make sure you tank the area, and give it a lot of thought as soap scum really doesn't come off easily. You can't...

not personally, but i own a shop - sell like this all the time for porcelain etc. For large format slate you'd want a deeper trowel than 6mm, more like a 10mm. Most 20kg bags will yield 4-5m2 coverage, more like 4 with a deep bed. If you use a calibrated slate, you'll make your life easier...

Those tiles are right on the edge of the max for tubbed, If you use a cement based adhesive on the walls make sure you prime the plaster\board with an acrylic bonding agent first.

No need to tank it, no more ply is waterproof if you prime it with 2 coats of sbr and tape the joints -see http://www.nomoreply.net/installation/wetrooms/ BAL is great adhesive, but so is (trade) mapei. stay away from the diy sheds. Which brands are you able to get (assuming your buying...

i'd second adams post. get a proper moisture test, and dont prime it until just before tiling, foot traffic will affect it if you do. Choose your adhesive before choosing the primer.

It really depends on the adhesive you are using, but whichever adhesive you really need a moisture test on the screed before proceeding. Going by the book the screed must contain <0.5% residual moisture before any tiling can take place. Usually abrading and hoovering the surface will remove...

Dust, or the adhesive has been left too long before placing the tile on it and has skinned over. However, the big problem is that they have been dot and dabbed, instead of laid properly with a notched trowel. You should be trying to achieve 90% coverage, especially on a floor. Laid as they...

Hi, no your not going to successfully colour the grout afterwards i'm afraid. its a rake out and regrout job. If your fed up with staining, cleaning it up and sealing the grout could be an option

yes its all or nothing. Your tiler is right if you have UFH over varying types of screeds and a continuous installation. Yes it will increase the levels a lot - around 10mm, and yes its expensive. You'll also use double the adhesive as you fix the ditra down, then tile on top. I'm curious...

I'm assuming the floor isn't laid yet so the tiler probably just warning about deflection - in truth it shouldn't have a lot as long as the kingspan is well supported. 18mm marine ply will be fine and is a good choice, but you'll need to stop the boards from moving apart. Basically its a...

ok, they may be suggesting ditra due to the age of the new concrete, but its more likely they are suggesting it as a decoupling membrane to stop cracks where the old screen meets the new screed. because the old screed isn't heated, and because its older it will behave differently to the new...

I'd say the tiler is right. What is specified to go on top of the tyvek? and whats the use of the room after the conversion?

Few questions: 1. How long has the concrete been down ? 2. Was it a pumped screed, or was it a normal sand\cement one? 3. Is it electric or piped (water) underfloor heating? 4. What is the area? 5. Are there any expansion joints in the screed? (if its a small area, prob not) Ditra...