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Think of the room as a whole. By my understanding you have 6 horizontal lines to consider: floor - shower tray - window cill - dado - window soffit - ceiling. try a full tile from shower tray and see where the joints come on all the other horizontal lines. If one turns out to be a tiny cut...

either live with the step, or.... don't lay the ufh right upto the door. leave about a tile width away then "ramp" the last tile down to meet the dining floor. not an ideal solution but depends on how much you don't want a step :p

thanks for the advice guys the new boiler has just been installed and that's the only gas appliance in the house now....so that side of things is not an issue :) maybe I'll just block them temporarily for now to make sure condensation ain't a problem

Hi I have recently moved into a 1940's solid brick built house. All 3 bedrooms have large air vents on the exterior wall, which is making the rooms cold. They were obviously put in for a reason when built, but what is stopping me from just blocking them up ? Thanks for any advice :) Paul

quarter inch is very large for wall tile joints! be sure you use a "wide-joint" grout. after you put the grout in the joints, lightly sponge the joints diagonally across - this will stop the grout being dragged back out. only after the joints have firmed up do you want to run the sponge...

It is made by a company called Ruabon it's probably 194mmx94mm the vast majority of tile stockists should be able to order it for you (very few will have them in stock) And yes - they do a black version too

B&Q do a range of tile drill bits that are exactly what you need and won't break the bank - they can be a bitch to start off though, so make a guide with a scrap piece of wood or plastic to make it easier to drill the tile where you want it. And no to the PVA.

If these tiles are stuck using black adhesive, then the chances are they are old thermoplastic tiles (original vinyl). Very few of these type of tiles ever contained asbestos. If you see no fibrous materials in the snapped pieces then Just chop em up and throw them away safe as houses mate.

If you leave a gap (normal tile spacer is plenty) it means that if you need to replace the work top in future - you are less likely to damage any tiles during replacement :)

really?? I guess it depends on the adhesive. There are plenty of readymix adhesives on the market that are fine to use on bonding / undercoat. To be honest I would much rather tile onto a good undercoat than a smooth top-coat as it gives a better key - in fact, some adhesive manufacturers...

If you are using 60x30 tiles then you really need to re-think. Tiles that size are normally made of porcelain or a much denser than normal ceramic biscuit. Either way, they have very little absorption. As the existing ceramic tiles have no absorption either, the adhesive has no-where for the...

as lancenotalot says, I would only use wbp or marine ply. as for treatment: it will need priming with PVA at the very least! most adhesive manufacturers recommend their own specific primer - but a PVA primer is normally good enough.