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Ah, suddenly everything becomes clear. Many thanks all.

Hey Scotty, many thanks for the info, just a couple of quick questions. Why should lead lashing not be more than 1500mm in length? What if your roof is longer than that? I do have large concrete tiles - do you not need soakers with these? What is a water line? Sorry for being...

We had our bay window done with smaller ridge tiles which look fine (compared to other in the street with full sized tiles which look very out of proportion. They also look smarter than the neightbours ones done with lead and other done with just cement which have invariably failed.

Cheers chaps, we were not intending to use it as a habitable room. If boarded without counter battening will it be strong enough to hold my 14 stone when clambering about in the loft storing things? When you say will not take anything heavy? Is that with or without the counter battening - and...

Yep, looks like that sort of roof - certainl very busy with diagonal bits of timber unlike the relatively clear victorian roofs. We are not wanting to use the loft for anything other than general attic type storage but was just a bit concerned about how much weight these joists will take...

Hi all, We have a victorian terrace where the party walls extend a foot or so above the roof line so that each house has its own individual roof butted up on each side to the part walls (best attempt yet at a concise description :wink: ). There is lead flashing where the roof (concrete...

Hi, My in-laws have just moved into a 1980/90s build modern house having (like me) always lived in victorian properties. I nipped up into the loft for them yesterday to see if had been previous boarded (which it hadn't) and was horrified to see that the joists (the ones to which the first...

You can, and quite frankly if you are not going to have a loft ladder installed then this is probably a much easier option. However, if you are using a permanently installed loft ladder you will need a flap down hatch rather than one sitting in a frame.

:D Oh you old spoil sport :wink: I reckon some silicone sealant should do the job.

Make a timber frame out of 2x1 and nail a bit of thin ply, mdf, or hardboard to one side. Hinges can then be attached to frame and you do not have to worry about weight. As an addition you could make the frame slightly deeper and put board on both sides, filling the cavity with insulation...

Please post photos of the results of trying to fill a 3mm gap with expanding foam.

Hi, I have a bit a problem with a leaky roof on a late victorian terrace, just down in one corner, with no obvious defect in the roof - so the plan is to strip of and re-do the lead work on that side. There is not water pouring in, but water is definitely penertrating somewhere. We think...

Cheers Big-all - so you do not find any problem screwing into the edge of mdf as long as you use a non-tapering screw and you drill a pilot hole? JohnD the storm hinge (last but one) screws onto the (inside) face of the door.

Did not really find this a problem - a small pencil mark on the wall indicates where the wooden blocks have been fixed - each block was a couple of inches wide and the boards nailed onto these with 40mm hidden head nails (less finishing off than having to cover over screw heads). If the blocks...

A veyr impressive selection. However, all but one require you to screw into the edge of the MDF - my concern is that anything screwed into the edge will cause it to split (however, my experience with MDF is limited). What is the one on the bottom right? Is this a hinge? Looks like a magnetic...

Possible, and a jolly good idea.......... and you know there must be a but............... I am not sure there will be sufficient space behind the door to accomodate this hinge - the cupboard is to cover the fuse box and meter which is above the front door - I have tried to make it as...

Possibly - I suppose it distributes weight better. But I assume they still have to be screwed in - so not sure how it solves my problem

I have built a little cabinet to fix over the fuse box etc. All vey nice but now it comes to make the doors. They are each about 400mm x 500mm. I was planning to use MDF but am concerned about it splitting when I try to screw hinges in. What do people think would be the best approach?

Is this an old house? Traditionally the scratch coat of plaster would added with a 4-5 inch gap at the bottom - wooden wedges would then by hammered into the mortared joints (or nailed to the brick in cheaper houses. These would then be cut flush with the wall. The skirting would then be...

SLiding bevel is definitely the way - I did this very job this weekend like this... 1. Mark a pencil line on the wall following the line of the dado in the hall 2. Mark a similar line down the stairs long enough that it cross the line in the hall. 3. Using a sliding bevel or other clever...