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Thanks for your reply. Some advise fixing down through the frame into the cill, but not into the brickwork. Others say down through the frame into the cill and the brickwork. Others say the method I've described above. Seems like a certain amount comes down to personal preference!

I'm just about to attempt to fit a couple of uPVC windows but I'm getting conflicting advice as to how to fit the cill. Which way is best? I'm thinking of: - Siliconing the upstand - Fixing the cill to the frame with screws through the bottom of the cill into the underside of the frame -...

How many radiators is that boiler supplying? Regardless, I'd be tempted to move the return to the pipe you can trace back to the boiler return, and see if that improves matters. At least that way the return route is a known entity. It's also the most cost and time effective method at this...

I've just taken delivery of two Kommerling O70 windows/profiles and there are no bridging packers to be seen in the ancillaries pack. I assumed that they would come as standard given that they're an essential part of the install, so I didn't explicitly ask for them. Should I have?

Cobalt bit, slow speed, no hammer and take it slow. Or put it higher!

Honeywell DT90E (wired) can handle an 8A load, and the DT92E (wireless) can handle a 5A load. I think I'd rather use a contactor/relay though, as they're not normally used to switch such large loads. I would imagine they wouldn't last long at the upper limits. EDIT: Or an underfloor heating...

Milliput

Fair enough, outdated knowledge. My apologies. This is still a terrible idea and not the right way to go about it. Why are you so determined to bodge it in this way?Surely it wouldn't be that much more work to do it properly? How are you planning to wire up the controller? They're meant to be...

The kitchen is a notifiable location under Part P so you can't do any DIY electrics in there. I make that statement without malice, based on the fact that if you were 'competent' to the required standard, you wouldn't be asking if you could do what you're proposing as you'd know the answer would...

Or a Hepvo with a 32mm knuckle adaptor.

I took it off because there's not enough clearance to open it when left in situ. Red knob has no effect as the filter is sitting so far out.

I've just taken my Magnaclean off to clean it and it won't sit back in the position it came from (flush with the valve assembly). It's not leaking, but the brass showing is setting off my OCD... Will it be OK? Pushing it back doesn't do anything - it just reverts back to the position shown in...

Your best bet is ShowerDoc: https://www.showerdoc.com/contact-us/identify-my-shower

Depends how recently they've moved in, in suppose. I lived in a house with WAH and it was awful. It seemed to spread dust around and barely heated the house to an acceptable level. And what warm air there was was unpleasant (can't really describe why in words). If they've been in for some of...

Future-proofing, comfort and efficiency would be very good reasons.

Dare I say it, but wouldn't a combi boiler suit your needs perfectly? OK, the power shower might be out of the question, but you still get a good shower off a combi.

Unless you can see every inch of the hot water circuit from the boiler to the cylinder, I don't see how you can be so sure it's not connected that way at this point. The behaviour you have described would suggest it is, and it was quite common. The only other thing to try would be to restrict...

The cover reads 'with thermostat'. The device with the two terminals in the foreground, by the looks of it. That being said, most likely better to replace the whole thing given its age. The timer you've linked to is fine. Much better than the manually switched option you have now. The...

It's easy to add. It's just a single check valve. Yes, there should be a radiator without a TRV - the room with the thermostat in. Without seeing your pipework (ooh er) it's rather difficult to comment on the setup you have. If the radiator warms up significantly when the hot water alone is...

I'm assuming you have gravity hot water and pumped central heating? It could be that you are getting gravity circulation on the heating side. If there's no anti-gravity valve on the flow, this will be why. If there is one, it could be stuck open.