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No, it will be substantially cheaper to heat it with oil.

If you deliberately cause your toilet and cistern to overflow by holding down the ballcock, you'll find out whether it's yours or not.

1) Dig in the most convenient location for laying new pipe with consideration to where you want it to enter the house. If that's the same route as the current lead, so be it - just be careful when you reach it. 2) Having read your other thread, 32mm. 3) Lay it on a bed of sand. Pipe-in-pipe is...

As things are, you won't be able to run your three showers at the same time satisfactorily if you opt for an unvented cylinder because the 17lpm will have to be split three ways and 5.5lpm doesn't make for a decent shower. How much concurrent usage do you expect?

But there's no coil?... It's a direct cylinder. The 'HW boost' switch should be connected to the upper immersion and the timer output connected to the lower immersion. All of it should be controllable from within the main house (i.e. not in the loft). I'd imagine the fused spur on the floor is...

This should explain what it is and why it exists: http://www.unitedutilities.com/documents/How_to_lay_a_new_water_supply_pipe.pdf

Clothes peg on the lever to keep it up. ;)

I've not seen the inside of one of those V33Ms and I didn't know they existed or I might have used one myself. The only thing I would say is that if they have non-return valves inside they could get clogged with hair, lint and food debris which was what was happening with the drain-out kit I...

That's my handiwork! There's a tiny section of solvent weld pipe in the bottom of the tee which you can't see.

Most likely to be 1/2". Philmac 9522 elbow should do the trick, with one or two Philmac 9122 straight connectors and short lengths of 20mm MDPE if the elbow won't line up with the existing pipework on its own. Yes, you will need pipe stiffeners/inserts. But it's likely to go again, given its...

With some easy modification of the pipework, you could mount the filter against the right hand wall of the cupboard, vertically. Infinitely preferable to any of the options you've proposed.

Narrower end of the rubber adapter goes into the fitting, then the 15mm copper pushes into the wider end. The silver ring and plastic piece together secure it in place.

Both bits are upside down in those photos. The silver ring makes contact with the wider end of the rubber bung.

I have a mitre saw, so I can cut it in, but I obviously can't do this along the long edge. I need the cut to be clean as there's no carpet, so a hand saw is not an option.

Top secret. ;) Plain ol' rectangular.

We've just had some skirting replaced and the electrician has damaged it by hammering it to the wall along its length. It's now ruined. I'm now trying to find a suitable replacement and the only bits I can find are slightly off in either dimension. It measures 115x20mm. Anyone any bright ideas...

I was referring to the order of the links in Dilalio's first post. When he posted a second time he re-ordered them in order of preference. You don't need a blowtorch for a compression fitting! As you were...

Yes. The first one pushes on and needs a tool to remove. The middle one needs a blowtorch, some solder and some flux and could be said to be a permanent solution. The last one just requires a spanner/wrench/mole grip combo. In order of preference: 2, 3, 1.

That does seem expensive given what you've outlined. I'd also ask why the 24kW boiler has been specified. I would have thought something in the region of 15kW would have been more appropriate, but then I've not been on site and it may well be ideally suited.

That's one way, except you may find you can get away with installing the valve directly onto the original pipework with just one new length of pipe and slip coupler to make up the difference.