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Calm down!!!!! Hopefully you will of remembered which is the flow and return (which pipe goes to which end of the radiator). Switch your boiler off and drain down the system before you take the stops off the ends left by the plasterer or you will have a flood in your kitchen. Once it is...

So did the problem rad warm up?

Sorry sime you got in before me but I agree dont mention the sludge word.

The old rads have been balanced to give the best flow and heat for that amount of rads. Depending on where you new rad lies, which may be at the end of a run (which is it by the sounds of it and how you have teed into them) then the existing rads will take the bulk of the heat leaving you one...

i totally agree with you, but to try to get over the problem without re plumbing, maybe re balancing might help as you quite rightly have pointed out the rads flow through it is being restricted so it may help.

what happened when you turned off all the other rads but the the one which was not working?

yep, but not beating around the bush

Did the problem rad get alot warmer all over? if so then it may be a case of re balancing.

Are the valves on the radiator twin entry?

have yoy tried shutting off all the rads except the new one?

Have you ever sat and wondered why do I only get the C**** jobs?

Tap revivers could be the best compromise and easy to instal.

Freezing kit is at the ready, however my merchant has told me that you cannot get twin entry valves anymore is this right?

Usually they will come out by clockwise. is the leak from the top of the tap connector or on the compression joint?

Thanks for that, I was hoping not to do that!!!!!!!"!! But that sounds reasonable. If it is broken can they be mended or is it a case for a new rad?

Try your local council (re-lets or day to day section), I bet they would be interested in you. Alternativley British Gas academy. Phoning round from the yellow pages is futile as everyone is sooo busy though you may strike lucky. Try doing a few little jobs that you feel comfortable with around...

A customer had a rad replaced which is twin entry microbore about 2 years ago. She says it has never worked. So checked the obvious (the valve open), found it was getting slightly warm at the top, cold at the bottom, rad tails are warm. So turned off all rads except this one, still did not...

turn valves off, drain off rad and remove. if you have a long length of pipe before the tail, then could freeze pipe cut quickly and put and isolator on (obviously make sure that the isolator is in the off position before you put it on). Then adjust and fit new rad.

One option I have found prevents airlocks is to freeze the hot water pipe if you think that you can cut the pipe and put the isolator on quickly enough. Another alternative is to bung the vent and feed to the hot water cylinder.

I agree with you but it sounds like sludge is being moved around the system. Maybe its time for super sentinel!!